 |
William Bligh's Narrative of the Mutiny on the Bounty (London: George Nicol, 1790) |
|
A Narrative, &c. I SAILED FROM OTAHEITE on
the 4th of April 1789, having on board 1015 fine bread-fruit plants,
besides many other valuable fruits of that country, which, with
unremitting attention, we had been collecting for three and twenty
weeks, and which were now in the highest state of perfection. On the 11th of April, I
discovered an island in latitude 18° 52' S. and longitude 200°
19' E. by the natives called Whytootackee. On the 24th we anchored at
Annamooka, one of the Friendly Islands; from which, after completing
our wood and water, I sailed on the 27th, having every reason to
expect, from the fine condition of the plants, that they would continue
healthy. On the evening of the 28th,
owing to light winds, we were not clear of the islands, and at night I
directed my course towards Tofoa. The master had the first watch; the
gunner the middle watch; and Mr. Christian, one of the mates, the
morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the night. Just before sun-rising, Mr.
Christian, with the master at arms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burket,
seaman, came into my cabin while I was asleep, and seizing me, tied my
hands with a cord behind my back, and threatened me with instant death,
if I spoke or made the least noise: I, however, called so loud as to
alarm everyone; but they had already secured the officers who were not
of their party, by placing centinels at their doors. There were three
men at my cabin door, besides the four within; Christian had only a
cutlass in his hand, the others had muskets and bayonets. I was hauled
out of bed, and forced on deck in my shirt, suffering great pain from
the tightness with which they had tied my hands. I demanded the reason
of such violence, but received no other answer than threats of instant
death, if I did not hold my tongue. Mr. Elphinston, the master's mate,
was kept in his birth; Mr. Nelson, botanist, Mr. Peckover, gunner, Mr.
Ledward, surgeon, and the master, were confined to their cabins; and
also the clerk, Mr. Samuel, but he soon obtained leave to come on deck.
The fore hatchway was guarded by centinels; the boatswain and carpenter
were, however, allowed to come on deck, where they saw me standing
abaft the mizen-mast, with my hands tied behind my back, under a guard,
with Christian at their head. The boatswain was now
ordered to hoist the launch out, with a threat, if he did not do it
instantly, to take care of himself. The boat being out, Mr.
Hayward and Mr. Hallet, midshipmen, and Mr. Samuel, were ordered into
it; upon which I demanded the cause of such an order, and endeavoured
to persuade some one to a sense of duty; but it was to no effect: "Hold
your tongue, Sir, or you are dead this instant," was constantly
repeated to me. The master, by this time,
had sent to be allowed to come on deck, which was permitted; but he was
soon ordered back again to his cabin. I continued my endeavours to
turn the tide of affairs, when Christian changed the cutlass he had in
his hand for a bayonet, that was brought to him, and, holding me with a
strong gripe by the cord that tied my hands, he with many oaths
threatened to kill me immediately if I would not be quiet: the villains
round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets fixed. Particular people
were now called on to go into the boat, and were hurried over the side:
whence I concluded that with these people I was to be set adrift. I therefore made another
effort to bring about a change, but with no other effect than to be
threatened with having my brains blown out. The boatswain and seamen,
who were to go in the boat, were allowed to collect twine, canvas,
lines, sails, cordage, an eight and twenty gallon cask of water, and
the carpenter to take his tool chest. Mr. Samuel got 150 lbs of bread,
with a small quantity of rum and wine. He also got a quadrant and
compass into the boat; but was forbidden, on pain of death, to touch
either map, ephemeris, book of astronomical observations, sextant,
time-keeper, or any of my surveys or drawings. The mutineers now hurried
those they meant to get rid of into the boat. When most of them were
in, Christian directed a dram to be served to each of his. own crew. I
now unhappily saw that nothing could be done to effect the recovery of
the ship: there was no one to assist me, and every endeavour on my part
was answered with threats of death. The officers were called,
and forced over the side into the boat, while I was kept apart from
everyone, abaft the mizen-mast; Christian, armed with a bayonet,
holding me by the bandage that secured my hands. The guard round me had
their pieces cocked, but, on my daring the ungrateful wretches to fire,
they uncocked them. Isaac Martin, one of the
guard over me, I saw, had an inclination to assist me, and, as he fed
me with shaddock, (my lips being quite parched with my endeavours to
bring about a change) we explained our wishes to each other by our
looks; but this being observed, Martin was instantly removed from me;
his inclination then was to leave the ship, for which purpose he got
into the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to return. The armourer, Joseph
Coleman, and the two carpenters, McIntosh and Norman, were also kept
contrary to their inclination; and they begged of me, after I was
astern in the boat, to remember that they declared they had no hand in
the transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise wanted to leave the
ship. It is of no moment for me to
recount my endeavours to bring back the offenders to a sense of their
duty: all I could do was by speaking to them in general; but my
endeavours were of no avail, for I was kept securely bound, and no one
but the guard suffered to come near me. To Mr. Samuel I am indebted
for securing my journals and commission, with some material ship
papers. Without these I had nothing to certify what I had done, and my
honour and character might have been suspected, without my possessing a
proper document to have defended them. All this he did with great
resolution, though guarded and strictly watched. He attempted to save
the time-keeper, and a box with all my surveys, drawings, and remarks
for fifteen years past, which were numerous; when he was hurried away,
with "Damn your eyes, you are well off to get what you have." It appeared to me that
Christian was some time in doubt whether he should keep the carpenter,
or his mates; at length he determined on the latter, and the carpenter
was ordered into the boat. He was permitted, but not without some
opposition, to take his tool chest. Much altercation took place among
the mutinous crew during the whole business: some swore "I'll be damned
if he does not find his way home, if he gets any thing with him,"
(meaning me); others, when the carpenter's chest was carrying away,
"Damn my eyes, he will have a vessel built in a month." While others
laughed at the helpless situation of the boat, being very deep, and so
little room for those who were in her. As for Christian, he seemed
meditating instant destruction on himself and every one. I asked for arms, but they
laughed at me, and said I was well acquainted with the people where I
was going, and therefore did not want them; four cutlasses, however,
were thrown into the boat, after we were veered astern. When the officers and men,
with whom I was suffered to have no communication, were put into the
boat, they only waited for me, and the master at arms informed
Christian of it; who then said-"Come, captain Bligh, your officers and
men are now in the boat, and you must go with them; if you attempt to
make the least resistance you will instantly be put to death"; and,
without any farther ceremony, holding me by the cord that tied my
hands, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was forced over the
side, where they untied my hands. Being in the boat we were veered
astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork were then thrown to us, and some
cloaths, also the cutlasses I have already mentioned; and it was now
that the armourer and carpenters called out to me to remember that they
had no hand in the transaction. After having undergone a great deal of
ridicule, and been kept some time to make sport for these unfeeling
wretches, we were at length cast adrift in the open ocean. I had with me the following
persons: Names Stations JOHN FRYER.................................................................................... Master THOMAS LEDWARD....................................................................... Acting Surgeon DAVID NELSON.............................................................................. Botantist WILLIAM PECKOVER.................................................................... Gunner WILLIAM COLE............................................................................... Boatswain WILLIAM PURCELL........................................................................ Carpenter WILLIAM ELPHINSTON................................................................. Master’s Mate THOMAS HAYWARD...................................................................... Midshipmen JOHN HALLET................................................................................. Midshipmen JOHN NORTON............................................................................... Quarter Masters PETER LINKLETTER....................................................................... Quarter Masters LAWRENCE LEBOGUE................................................................... Sailmaker JOHN SMITH.................................................................................... Cooks THOMAS HALL................................................................................ Cooks GEORGE SIMPSON......................................................................... Quarter Master’s Mate ROBET TINKLER............................................................................. A boy ROBERT LAMB................................................................................ Butcher MR. SAMUEL................................................................................... Clerk There remained on board the Bounty, as pirates, FLETCHER CHRISTIAN.................................................................. Master’s Mate PETER HAYWOOD.......................................................................... Midshipmen EDWARD YOUNG........................................................................... Midshipman GEORGE STEWART......................................................................... Midshipman CHARLES CHURCHILL................................................................... Master at Arms JOHN MILLS.................................................................................... Gunner’s Mate JAMES MORRISON......................................................................... Boatswain’s Mate THOMAS BURKITT......................................................................... Able Seaman MATTHEW QUINTAL..................................................................... Ditto JOHN SUMNER................................................................................ Ditto JOHN MILLWARD........................................................................... Ditto WILLIAM MCKOY.......................................................................... Ditto HENRY HILLBRANDT..................................................................... Ditto MICHAEL BYRNE............................................................................ Ditto WILLIAM MUSPRAT....................................................................... Ditto ALEXANDER SMITH....................................................................... Ditto JOHN WILLIAMS............................................................................. Ditto THOMAS ELLISON......................................................................... Ditto ISAAC MARTIN............................................................................... Ditto RICHARD SKINNER........................................................................ Ditto MATTHEW THOMPSON................................................................. Ditto WILLIAM BROWN...................................... ................................... Gardinerr JOSEPH COLEMAN......................................................................... Armourer CHARLES NORMAN....................................................................... Carpenter’s Mate THOMAS MCINTOSH..................................................................... Carpenter’s Crew In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the Ship’s company. Having little or no wind, we
rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, which bore NE about 10 leagues from
us. While the ship was in sight she steered to the WNW, but I
considered this only as a feint; for when we were sent away-"Huzza for
Otaheite," was frequently heard among the mutineers. Christian, the captain of
the gang, is of a respectable family in the north of England. This was
the third voyage he had made with me; and, as I found it necessary to
keep my ship's company at three watches, I gave him an order to take
charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly equal to the task;
and by this means my master and gunner were not at watch and watch. Haywood is also of a
respectable family in the north of England, and a young man of
abilities, as well as Christian. These two were objects of my
particular regard and attention, and I took great pains to instruct
them, for they really promised, as professional men, to be a credit to
their country. Young was well recommended,
and appeared to me an able stout seaman; therefore I was glad to take
him: he, however, fell short of what his appearance promised. Stewart was a young man of
creditable parents, in the Orkneys; at which place, on the return of
the Resolution from the South Seas, in 1780, we received so many
civilities, that, on that account only, I should gladly have taken him
with me: but, independent of this recommendation, he was a seaman, and
had always borne a good character. Notwithstanding the
roughness with which I was treated, the remembrance of past kindnesses
produced some signs of remorse in Christian. When they were forcing me
out of the ship, I asked him, if this treatment was a proper return for
the many instances he had received of my friendship? he appeared
disturbed at my question, and answered, with much emotion,
"That,-captain Bligh,-that is the thing;-I am in hell-I am in hell." As soon as I had time to reflect, I felt an inward satisfaction, which prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my integrity, and anxious solicitude for the good of the service in which I was engaged, I found my mind wonderfully supported, and I began to conceive hopes, notwithstanding so heavy a calamity, that I should one day be able to account to my King and country for the misfortune. A few hours before, my situation had been peculiarly flattering. I had a ship in the most perfect order, and well stored with every necessary both for service and health: by early attention to those particulars I had, as much as lay in my power, provided against any accident, in case I could not get through Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might befal me in them; add to this, the plants had been successfully preserved in the most flourishing state: so that, upon the whole, the voyage was two thirds completed, and the remaining part in a very promising way; every person on board being in perfect health, to establish which was ever amongst the principal objects of my attention. It will very naturally be
asked, what could be the reason for such a revolt? in answer to which,
I can only conjecture that the mutineers had assured themselves of a
more happy life among the Otaheiteans, than they could possibly have in
England; which, joined to some female connections, have most probably
been the principal cause of the whole transaction. The women at Otaheite are
handsome, mild and chearful in their manners and conversation,
possessed of great sensibility, and have sufficient delicacy to make
them admired and beloved. The chiefs were so much attached to our
people, that they rather encouraged their stay among them than
otherwise, and even made them promises of large possessions. Under
these, and many other attendant circumstances, equally desirable, it is
now perhaps not so much to be wondered at, though scarcely possible to
have been foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them void of
connections, should be led away; especially when, in addition to such
powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix themselves
in the midst of plenty, on the finest island in the world, where they
need not labour, and where the allurements of dissipation are beyond
any thing that can be conceived. The utmost, however, that any
commander could have supposed to have happened is, that some of the
people would have been tempted to desert. But if it should be asserted,
that a commander is to guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his
own ship, more than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to
say that he must sleep locked up, and when awake, be girded with
pistols. Desertions have happened,
more or less, from many of the ships that have been at the Society
Islands; but it ever has been in the commanders power to make the
chiefs return their people: the knowledge, therefore, that it was
unsafe to desert, perhaps, first led mine to consider with what ease so
small a ship might be surprized, and that so favourable an opportunity
would never offer to them again. The secrecy of this mutiny
is beyond all conception. Thirteen of the party, who were with me, had
always lived forward among the people; yet neither they, nor the
mess-mates of Christian, Stewart, Haywood, and Young, had ever observed
any circumstance to give them suspicion of what was going on. With such
close-planned acts of villainy, and my mind free from any suspicion, it
is not wonderful that I have been got the better of. Perhaps, if I had
had marines, a centinel at my cabin-door might have prevented it; for I
slept with the door always open, that the officer of the watch might
have access to me on all occasions. The possibility of such a
conspiracy was ever the farthest from my thoughts. Had their mutiny
been occasioned by any grievances, either real or imaginary, I must
have discovered symptoms of their discontent, which would have put me
on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. Christian, in particular,
I was on the most friendly terms with; that very day he was engaged to
have dined with me; and the preceding night he excused himself from
supping with me, on pretence of being unwell; for which I felt
concerned, having no suspicions of his integrity and honour. It now remained with me to
consider what was best to be done. My first determination was to seek a
supply of bread-fruit and water at Tofoa, and afterwards to sail for
Tongataboo, and there risk a solicitation to Poulaho, the king, to
equip my boat, and grant a supply of water and provisions, so as to
enable us to reach the East Indies. The quantity of provisions I
found in the boat was 150 lb. Of bread, 16 pieces of pork, each piece
weighing 2 lb. 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of
water, and four empty barrecoes. Wednesday, April 29th.':-
Happily the afternoon kept calm, until about 4 o'clock, when we were so
far to windward, that, with a moderate easterly breeze which sprung up,
we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark when we got to Tofoa,
where I expected to land; but the shore proved to be so steep and
rocky, that I was obliged to give up all thoughts of it, and keep the
boat under the lee of the island with two oars; for there was no
anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night, I
served to every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest
as well as our unhappy situation would allow. In the morning, at dawn of
day, we set off along shore in search of landing, and about ten o'clock
we discovered a stony cove at the NW part of the island, where I dropt
the grapnel within 20 yards of the rocks. A great deal of surf ran on
the shore; but, as I was unwilling to diminish our stock of provisions,
I landed Mr. Samuel, and some others, who climbed the cliffs, and got
into the country to search for supplies. The rest of us remained at the
cove, not discovering any way to get into the country, but that by
which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was great consolation to me to find,
that the spirits of my people did not sink, notwithstanding our
miserable and almost hopeless situation. Towards noon Mr. Samuel
returned, with a few quarts of water, which he had found in holes; but
he had met with no spring, or any prospect of a sufficient supply in
that particular, and had only seen signs of inhabitants. As it was
impossible to know how much we might be in want, I only issued a morsel
of bread, and a glass of wine, to each person for dinner. I observed the latitude of
this cove to be 19° 41' S. This is the NW part of
Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the Friendly Islands. Thursday, April 30th. Fair
weather, but the wind blew so violently from the ESE that I could not
venture to sea. Our detention therefore made it absolutely necessary to
see what we could do more for our support; for I determined, if
possible, to keep my first stock entire: I therefore weighed, and rowed
along shore, to see if any thing could be got; and at last discovered
some cocoa-nut trees, but they were on the top of high precipices, and
the surf made it dangerous landing; both one and the other we, however,
got the better of. Some, with much difficulty, climbed the cliffs, and
got about 20 cocoa-nuts, and others slung them to ropes, by which we
hauled them through the surf into the boat. This was all that could be
done here; and, as I found no place so eligible as the one we had left
to spend the night at, I returned to the cove, and, having served a
cocoa-nut to each person, we went to rest again in the boat. At dawn of day I attempted
to get to sea; but the wind and weather proved so bad, that I was glad
to return to my former station; where, after issuing a morsel of bread
and a spoonful of rum to each person, we landed, and I went off with
Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, into the country, having
hauled ourselves up the precipice by long vines, which were fixed there
by the natives for that purpose; this being the only way into the
country. We found a few deserted
huts, and a small plantain walk, but little taken care of; from which
we could only collect three small bunches of plantains. After passing
this place, we came to a deep gully that led towards a mountain, near a
volcano; and, as I conceived that in the rainy season very great
torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped to find sufficient for
our use remaining in some holes of the rocks; but, after all our
search, the whole that we found was only nine gallons, in the course of
the day. We advanced within two miles of the foot of the highest
mountain in the island, on which is the volcano that is almost
constantly burning. The country near it is all covered with lava, and
has a most dreary appearance. As we had not been fortunate in our
discoveries, and saw but little to alleviate our distresses, we filled
our cocoa-nut shells with the water we found, and returned exceedingly
fatigued and faint. When I came to the precipice whence we were to
descend into the cove, I was seized with such a dizziness in my head,
that I thought it scarce possible to effect it: however, by the
assistance of Mr. Nelson and others, they at last got me down, in a
weak condition. Every person being returned by noon, I gave about an
ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of wine. I
again observed the latitude of this place 19° 41' south. The people
who remained by the boat I had directed to look for fish, or what they
could pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable could be found: so
that, upon the whole, we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of
land as could well be imagined. I could not say positively,
from the former knowledge I had of this island, whether it was
inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered inferior to the other
islands, and I was not certain but that the Indians only resorted to it
at particular times. I was very anxious to ascertain this point; for,
in case there had only been a few people, here, and those could have
furnished us with but very moderate supplies, the remaining in this
spot to have made preparations for our voyage, would have been
preferable to the risk of going amongst multitudes, where perhaps we
might lose every thing. A party, there fore, sufficiently strong, I
determined should go another route, as soon as the sun became lower;
and they cheerfully undertook it. Friday, May the 1st: stormy
weather, wind ESE and SE. About two o'clock in the afternoon the party
set out; but, after suffering much fatigue, they returned in the
evening, without any kind of success. At the head of the cove,
about 150 yards from the water-side, was a cave; across the stony beach
was about 100 yards, and the only way from the country into the cove
was that which I have already described. The situation secured us from
the danger of being surprised, and I determined to remain on shore for
the night, with a part of my people, that the others might have more
room to rest in the boat, with the master; whom I directed to lie at a
grapnel, and be watchful, in case we should be attacked. I ordered one
plantain for each person to be boiled; and, having supped on this
scanty allowance, with a quarter of a pint of grog, and fixed the
watches for the night, those whose turn it was, laid down to sleep in
the cave; before which we kept up a good fire, yet notwithstanding we
were much troubled with flies and musquitoes. At dawn of day the party set
out again in a different route, to see what they could find; in the
course of which they suffered greatly for want of water: they, however,
met with two men, a woman, and a child; the men came with them to the
cove, and brought two cocoanut shells of water. I immediately made
friends with these people, and sent them away for bread-fruit,
plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us; and by noon
I had 30 of them about me, trading with the articles we were in want
of: but I could only afford one ounce of pork, and a quarter of a
bread-fruit, to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water; for I
was fixed in not using any of the bread or water in the boat. No particular chief was yet
among the natives: they were, notwithstanding, tractable, and behaved
honestly, giving the provisions they brought for a few buttons and
beads. The party who had been out, informed me of having discovered
several neat plantations; so that it became no longer a doubt of there
being settled inhabitants on the island; and for that reason I
determined to get what I could, and sail the first moment the wind and
weather would allow me to put to sea. Saturday, May the 2d: stormy
weather, wind ESE. It had hitherto been a weighty consideration with
me, how I was to account to the natives for the loss of my ship: I knew
they had too much sense to be amused with a story that the ship was to
join me, when she was not in sight from the hills. I was at first
doubtful whether I should tell the real fact, or say that the ship had
overset and sunk, and that only we were saved: the latter appeared to
me to be the most proper and advantageous to us, and I accordingly
instructed my people, that we might all agree in one story. As I
expected, enquiries were made after the ship, and they seemed readily
satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the least symptom
of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I discovered some
marks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming and going the whole
afternoon, and we got enough of bread-fruit, plantains, and cocoa-nuts
for another day; but water they only brought us about five pints. A
canoe also came in with four men, and brought a few cocoa-nuts and
bread-fruit, which I bought as I had done the rest. Nails were much
enquired after, but I would not suffer one to be shewn, as I wanted
them for the use of the boat. Towards evening I had the
satisfaction to find our stock of provisions somewhat increased: but
the natives did not appear to have much to spare. What they brought was
in such small quantities, that I had no reason to hope we should be
able to procure from them sufficient to stock us for our voyage. At
sunset all the natives left us in quiet possession of the cove. I
thought this a good sign, and made no doubt that they would come again
the next day with a larger proportion of food and water, with which I
hoped to sail without farther delay: for if, in attempting to get to
Tongataboo, we should be blown away from the islands altogether, there
would be a larger quantity of provisions to support us against such a
misfortune. At night I served a quarter
of a bread-fruit and a cocoa-nut to each person for supper; and, a good
fire being made, all but the watch went to sleep. At day-break I was happy to
find every one's spirits a little revived, and that they no longer
regarded me with those anxious looks, which had constantly been
directed towards me since we lost sight of the ship: every countenance
appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they all seemed
determined to do their best. As I doubted of water being
brought by the natives, I sent a party among the gullies in the
mountains, with empty shells, to see what they could get. In their
absence the natives came about us, as I expected, but more numerous;
also two canoes came in from round the north side of the island. In one
of them was an elderly chief, called Maccaackavow. Soon after some of
our foraging party returned, and with them came a good-looking chief,
called Eegijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow, Egij or Eghee,
signifying a chief. To both these men I made a present of an old shirt
and a knife, and I soon found they either had seen me, or had heard of
my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with captain Cook, who they
enquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were very inquisitive to
know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this conversation a
young man appeared, whom I remembered to have seen at Annamooka, called
Nageete: he expressed much pleasure at seeing me. I now enquired after
Poulaho and Feenow, who, they said, were at Tongataboo; and Eefow agreed
to accompany me thither, if I would wait till the weather moderated.
The readiness and affability of this man gave me much satisfaction. This, however, was but of
short duration, for the natives began to increase in number, and I
observed some symptoms of a design against us; soon after they
attempted to haul the boat on shore, when I threatened Eefow with a
cutlass, to induce him to make them desist; which they did, and every
thing became quiet again. My people, who had been in the mountains, now
returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying up the little
bread-fruit that was brought to us, and likewise some spears to arm my
men with, having only four cutlasses, two of which were in the boat. As
we had no means of improving our situation, I told our people I would
wait until sun-set, by which time, perhaps, something might happen in
our favour: that if we attempted to go at present, we must fight our
way through, which we could do more advantageously at night; and that
in the mean time we would endeavour to get off to the boat what we had
bought. The beach was now lined with the natives, and we heard nothing
but the knocking of stones together, which they had in each hand. I
knew very well this was the sign of an attack. It being now noon, I
served a cocoa-nut and a bread-fruit to each person for dinner, and
gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate and
friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down, but I as
constantly refused; for it occurred both to Mr. Nelson and myself, that
they intended to seize hold of me, if I gave them such an opportunity.
Keeping, therefore, constantly on our guard, we were suffered to eat
our uncomfortable meal in some quietness. Sunday, 3d May. Fresh gales
at SE and ESE, varying to the NE in the latter part, with a storm of
wind. After dinner we began by
little and little to get our things into the boat, which was a
troublesome business, on account of the surf. I carefully watched the
motions of the natives, who still increased in number, and found that,
instead of their intention being to leave us, fires were made, and
places fixed on for their stay during the night. Consultations were
also held among them, and every thing assured me we should be attacked.
I sent orders to the master, that when he saw us coming down, he should
keep the boat close to the shore, that we might the more readily embark. I had my journal on shore
with me, writing the occurrences in the cave, and in sending it down to
the boat it was nearly snatched away, but for the timely assistance of
the gunner. The sun was near setting
when I gave the word, on which every person, who was on shore with me,
boldly took up his proportion of things, and carried them to the boat.
The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with them all night, I said,
"No, I never sleep out of my boat; but in the morning we will again
trade with you, and I shall remain until the weather is moderate, that
we may go, as we have agreed, to see Poulaho, at Tongataboo.
Maccaackavow then got up, and said, "You will not sleep on shore? then
Mattie," (which directly signifies we will kill you) and he left me.
The onset was now preparing; everyone, as I have described before, kept
knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. We had now all but two
or three things in the boat, when I took Nageete by the hand, and we
walked down the beach, every one in a silent kind of horror. When I came to the boat, and
was seeing the people embark, Nageete wanted me to stay to speak to
Eefow; but I found he was encouraging them to the attack, and I
determined, had it then begun, to have killed him for his treacherous
behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me until the other
people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not stay, loosed
himself from my hold and went off, and we all got into the boat except
one man, who, while I was getting on board, quitted it, and ran up the
beach to cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master and others
called to him to return, while they were hauling me out of the water. I was no sooner in the boat
than the attack began by about 200 men; the unfortunate poor man who
had run up the beach was knocked down, and the stones flew like a
shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern rope, and were near
hauling us on shore, and would certainly have done it if I had not had
a knife in my pocket, with which I cut the rope. We then hauled off to
the grapnel, every one being more or less hurt. At this time I saw five
of the natives about the poor man they had killed, and two of them were
beating him about the head with stones in their hands. We had no time to reflect,
before, to my surprise, they filled their canoes with stones, and
twelve men came off after us to renew the attack, which they did so
effectually as nearly to disable all of us. Our grapnel was foul, but
Providence here assisted us; the fluke broke, and we got to our oars,
and pulled to sea. They, however, could paddle round us, so that we
were obliged to sustain the attack without being able to return it,
except with such stones as lodged in the boat, and in this I found we
were very inferior to them. We could not close, because our boat was
lumbered and heavy, and that they knew very well: I therefore adopted
the expedient of throwing overboard some cloaths, which they lost time
in picking up; and, as it was now almost dark, they gave over the
attack, and returned towards the shore, leaving us to reflect on our
unhappy situation. The poor man I lost was John
Norton: this was his second voyage with me as a quarter-master, and his
worthy character made me lament his loss very much. He has left an aged
parent, I am told, whom he supported. I once before sustained an
attack of a similar nature, with a smaller number of Europeans, against
a multitude of Indians; it was after the death of captain Cook, on the
Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by lieutenant King: yet,
notwithstanding, I did not conceive that the power of a man's arm could
throw stones, from two to eight pounds weight, with such force and
exactness as these people did. Here unhappily I was without arms, and
the Indians knew it; but it was a fortunate circumstance that they did
not begin to attack us in the cave: in that case our destruction must
have been inevitable, and we should have had nothing left for it but to
die as bravely as we could, fighting close together; in which I found
every one cheerfully disposed to join me. This appearance of resolution
deterred them, supposing they could effect their purpose without risk
after we were in the boat. Taking this as a sample of
the dispositions of the Indians, there was little reason to expect much
benefit if I persevered in my intention of visiting Poulaho; for I
considered their good behaviour hitherto to proceed from a dread of our
fire-arms, which, now knowing us destitute of, would cease; and, even
supposing our lives not in danger, the boat and every thing we had
would most probably be taken from us, and thereby all hopes precluded
of ever being able to return to our native country. We were now sailing along
the west side of the island Tofoa, and my mind was employed in
considering what was best to be done, when I was solicited by all hands
to take them towards home: and, when I told them no hopes of relief for
us remained, but what I might find at New Holland, until I came to
Timor, a distance of full 1200 leagues, there was a Dutch settlement,
but in what part of the island I knew not, they all agreed to live on
one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, per day.
Therefore, after examining our stock of provisions, and recommending
this as a sacred promise for ever to their memory, we bore away across
a sea, where the navigation is but little known, in a small boat,
twenty-three feet long from stem to stern, deep laden with eighteen
men; without a chart, and nothing but my own recollection and general
knowledge of the situation of places, assisted by a book of latitudes
and longitudes, to guide us. I was happy, however, to see every one
better satisfied with our situation in this particular than myself. Our stock of provisions
consisted of about one hundred and fifty pounds of bread, twenty-eight
gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three bottles of wine, and
five quarts of rum. The difference between this and the quantity we had
on leaving the ship, was principally owing to loss in the bustle and
confusion of the attack. A few cocoa-nuts were in the boat, and some
bread-fruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces. It was about eight o'clock
at night when I bore away under a reefed lug fore-sail: and, having
divided the people into watches, and got the boat in a little order, we
returned God thanks for our miraculous preservation, and, fully
confident of his gracious support, I found my mind more at ease than
for some time past. At day-break the gale
increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure indication of a
severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm, and the sea ran
very high, so that between the seas the sail was becalmed, and when on
the top of the sea it was too much to have set: but I was obliged to
carry to it, for we were now in very imminent danger and distress, the
sea curling over the stern of the boat, which obliged us to bale with
all our might. A situation more distressing has, perhaps, seldom been
experienced. Our bread was in bags, and
in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be starved to death was
inevitable, if this could not be prevented: I therefore began to
examine what cloaths there were in the boat, and what other things
could be spared; and, having determined that only two suits should be
kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard, with some rope and
spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had more
room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good chest
in the boat, into which I put the bread the first favourable moment.
His tool chest also was cleared, and the tools stowed in the bottom of
the boat, so that this became a second convenience. I now served a tea-spoonful
of rum to each person, (for we were very wet and cold) with a quarter
of a bread-fruit, which was scarce eatable, for dinner; but our
engagement was now strictly to be carried into execution, and I was
fully determined to make what provisions I had last eight weeks, let
the daily proportion be ever so small. At noon I considered my
course and distance from Tofoa to be WNW 3/4W. 86 miles, my latitude
19° 27' S. I directed my course to the WNW, that I might get a
sight of the islands called Feejee, if they laid in the direction the
natives had pointed out to me. Monday, 4th May. This day
the weather was very severe, it blew a storm from NE to ESE. The sea
ran higher than yesterday, and the fatigue of baling, to keep the boat
from filling, was exceedingly great. We could do nothing more than keep
before the sea; in the course of which the boat performed so
wonderfully well, that I no longer dreaded any danger in that respect.
But among the hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly
wet was not the least: the nights were very cold, and at day-light our
limbs were so benumbed, that we could scarce find the use of them. At
this time I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person, which we all
found great benefit from. As I have mentioned before,
I determined to keep to the WNW, until I got more to the northward, for
I not only expected to have better weather, but to see the Feejee
Islands, as I have often understood, from the natives of Annamooka,
that they lie in that direction; Captain Cook likewise considers them
to be NW by W from Tongataboo. Just before noon we discovered a small
flat island of a moderate height, bearing WSW, 4 or 5 leagues. I
observed in latitude 18° 58' S; our longitude, by account, 3°
4' W from the island Tofoa, having made a N 72° W course, distance
95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five small cocoa-nuts for our
dinner, and every one was satisfied. Tuesday, 5th May. Towards
the evening the gale considerably abated. Wind SE. A little after noon, other
islands appeared, and at a quarter past three o'clock we could count
eight, bearing from S round by the west to NW by N; those to the south,
which were the nearest, being four leagues distant from us. I kept my course to the NW
by W, between the islands, and at six o'clock discovered three other
small islands to the NW, the westernmost of them bore NW1/2W 7 leagues.
I steered to the southward of these islands, a WNW course for the
night, under a reefed sail. Served a few broken pieces
of bread-fruit for supper, and performed prayers. The night turned out fair,
and, having had tolerable rest, everyone seemed considerably better in
the morning, and contentedly breakfasted on a few pieces of yams that
were found in the boat. After breakfast we prepared a chest for our
bread, and got it secured: but unfortunately a great deal was damaged
and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad to keep for use. I had hitherto been scarcely
able to keep any account of our run; but we now equipped ourselves a
little better, by getting a log-line marked, and, having practiced at
counting seconds, several could do it with some degree of exactness. The islands I have passed
lie between the latitude of 19° 5' Sand 18° 19' S, and,
according to my reckoning, from 3° 17' to 3° 46' W longitude
from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in circuit;
but it is impossible for me to be very exact. To show where they are to
be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The sketch I
have made, will give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all
the larger islands are inhabited, as they appeared very fertile. At noon I observed, in
latitude 18° 10' S, and considered my course and distance from
yesterday noon, NW by W1/2W, 94 miles; longitude, by account, from
Tofoa 4° 29' W. For dinner, I served some of
the damaged bread, and a quarter of a pint of water. Wednesday, 6th May. Fresh
breezes ENE, and fair weather, but very hazy. About six o'clock this
afternoon I discovered two islands, one Our supper, breakfast, and
dinner, consisted of a quarter of a pint of cocoa-nut milk, and the
meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each person: it was received
very contentedly, but we suffered great drought. I dared not to land,
as we had no arms, and were less capable to defend ourselves than we
were at Tofoa. To keep an account of the
boat's run was rendered difficult, from being constantly wet with the
sea breaking over us; but, as we advanced towards the land, the sea
became smoother, and I was enabled to form a sketch of the islands,
which will serve to give a general knowledge of their extent. Those I
have been near are fruitful and hilly, some very mountainous, and all
of a good height. To our great joy we hooked a
fish, but we were miserably disappointed by its being lost in getting
into the boat. Thursday, 7th May. Variable
weather and cloudy, wind north-easterly, and calms. I continued my
course to the NW, between the islands, which, by the evening, appeared
of considerable extent, woody, and mountainous. At sun-set the
southernmost bore from S to SW by W, and the northernmost from N by
W1/2W to NE1/2E. At six o'clock I was nearly mid-way between them, and
about 6 leagues distant from each shore, when I fell in with a coral
bank, where I had only four feet water, without the least break on it,
or ruffle of the sea to give us warning. I could only see that it
extended about a mile on each side of us; but, as it is probable that
it extends much farther, I have laid it down so in my sketch. I now directed my course W
by N for the night, and served to each person an ounce of the damaged
bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, for supper. It may readily be supposed,
that our lodgings were very miserable and confined, and I had only in
my power to remedy the latter defect by putting ourselves at watch and
watch; so that one half always sat up while the other lay down on the
boat's bottom, or upon a chest, with nothing to cover us but the
heavens. Our limbs were dreadfully cramped, for we could not stretch
them out, and the nights were so cold, and we so constantly wet, that
after a few hours sleep we could scarce move. At dawn of day we again
discovered land from WSW to WNW, and another island NNW, the latter a
high round lump of but little extent; and I could see the southern land
that I had passed in the night. Being very wet and cold, I served a
spoonful of rum and a morsel of bread for breakfast. As I advanced towards the
land in the west, it appeared in a variety of forms; some extraordinary
high rocks, and the country agreeably interspersed with high and low
land, covered in some places with wood. Off the NE part lay two small
rocky islands, between which and the island to the NE, 4 leagues apart,
I directed my course; but a lee current very unexpectedly set us very
near to the shore, and I could only get clear of it by rowing, passing
close to the reef that surrounded the rocky isles. We now observed two
large sailing canoes coming swiftly after us along shore, and, being
apprehensive of their intentions, we rowed with some anxiety, being
sensible of our weak and defenceless state. It was now noon, calm and
cloudy weather, my latitude is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles; my
course since yesterday noon N 56 W, distance 79 miles; latitude by
account, 16° 29' S, and longitude by account, from Tofoa, 6°
46' W. Being constantly wet, it was with the utmost difficulty I could
open a book to write, and I am sensible that what I have done can only
serve to point out where these lands are to be found again, and give an
idea of their extent. Friday, 8th May. All the
afternoon the weather was very rainy, attended with thunder and
lightning. Wind NNE. Only one of the canoes
gained upon us, and by three o'clock in the afternoon was not more than
two miles off, when she gave over chase. If I may judge from the sail
of the vessels, they are the same as at the Friendly Islands, and the
nearness of their situation leaves little room to doubt of their being
the same kind of people. Whether these canoes had any hostile intention
against us is a matter of doubt; perhaps we might have benefited by an
intercourse with them, but in our defenceless situation it would have
been risking too much to make the experiment.. I imagine these to be the
islands called Feejee, as their extent, direction, and distance from
the Friendly Islands, answers to the description given of them by those
Islanders. Heavy rain came on at our o'clock, when every person did
their utmost to catch some water, and we increased our stock to 34
gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the first time since we had
been at sea; but an attendant consequence made us pass the night very
miserably, for, being extremely wet, and no dry things to shift or
cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce to be conceived.
Most fortunately for us, the forenoon turned out fair, and we stripped
and dried our cloaths. The allowance I issued to-day, was an ounce and
a half of pork, a teaspoonful of rum, half a pint of cocoa-nut milk,
and an ounce of bread. The rum, though so small in quantity, was of the
greatest service. A fishing-line was generally towing, and we saw great
numbers of fish, but could never catch one. At noon, I observed, in
latitude 16° 4' S, and found I had made a course, from yesterday
noon, N 62° W, distance 62 miles; longitude, by account, from
Tofoa, 7° 42' W. The land I passed yesterday,
and the day before, is a group of islands, 14 or 16 in number, lying
between the latitude of 16° 26' S and1 57' S, and in longitude, by
my account, 4° 47' to 7° 17' W from Tofoa; three of these
islands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of sea-coast. Saturday, 9th May. Fine
weather, and light winds from the NE to E by S. This afternoon we cleaned
out the boat, and it employed us till sun-set to get every thing dry
and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance by guess, but I now
got a pair of scales, made with two cocoa-nut shells; and, having
accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25': of which weighed one
pound, or 16 ounces, I adopted one, as the proportion of weight that
each person should receive of bread at the times I served it. I also
amused all hands, with describing the situation of New Guinea and New
Holland, and gave them every information in my power, that in case any
accident happened to me, those who survived might have some idea of
what they were about, and be able to find their way to Timor, which at
present they knew nothing of, more than the name, and some not that. At night I served a quarter
of a pint of water, and half an ounce of bread, for supper. In the
morning, a quarter of a pint of cocoa-nut milk, and some of the decayed
bread, for breakfast; and for dinner, I divided the meat of four
cocoa-nuts, with the remainder of the rotten bread, which was only
eatable by such distressed people. At noon, I observed the
latitude to be 15° 47' S; course since yesterday N 75° W;
distant 64 miles; longitude made, by account, 8° 45' W. Sunday, May the 10th. The
first part of this day fine weather; but after sun-set it became
squally, with hard rain, thunder, and lightning, and a fresh gale; wind
E by S, SE, and SSE. In the afternoon I got
fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast and contrived a canvass weather
cloth round the boat, and raised the quarters about nine inches, by
nailing on the seats of the stern sheets, which proved of great benefit
to us. About nine o'clock in the
evening, the clouds began to gather, and we had a prodigious fall of
rain, with severe thunder and lightning. By midnight we had caught
about twenty gallons of water. Being miserably wet and cold, I served
to each person a tea-spoonful of rum, to enable them to bear with their
distressed situation. The weather continued extremely bad, and the wind
increased; we spent a very miserable night, without sleep, but such as
could be got in the midst of rain. The day brought us no relief but
its' light. The sea was constantly breaking over us, which kept two
persons baling; and we had no choice how to steer, for we were obliged
to keep before the waves to avoid filling the boat. The allowance which I now
regularly served to each person was one 25th of a pound of bread, and a
quarter of a pint of water, at sun-set, eight in the morning, and at
noon. To-day I gave about half an ounce of pork for dinner, which,
though any moderate person would have considered but a mouthful, was
divided into three or four. The rain abated towards noon, and I
observed the latitude to be 15° 17' S; course N 6r W; distance 78
miles; longitude made 10° W. Monday, May the 11th. Strong gales
from SSE to SE, and very squally weather, with a high breaking sea, so
that we were miserably wet, and suffered great cold in the night. In
the morning at day-break I served to every person a tea-spoonful of
rum, our limbs being so cramped that we could scarce feel the use of
them. Our situation was now extremely dangerous, the sea frequently
running over our stern, which kept us baling with all our strength. At noon the sun appeared,
which gave us as much pleasure as in a winter's day in England. I
issued the 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water,
as yesterday. Latitude observed 14° 50' S; course N 71 ° W;
distance 102 miles; and longitude, by account, 11 ° 39' W. from
Tofoa. Tuesday, May the 12th.
Strong gales at SE, with much rain and dark dismal weather, moderating
towards noon, and wind varying to the NE. Having again experienced a
dreadful night, the day showed to me a poor miserable set of beings
full of wants, without any thing to relieve them. Some complained of a
great pain in their bowels, and all of having but very little use of
their limbs. What sleep we got was scarce refreshing, we being covered
with sea and rain. Two persons were obliged to be always baling the
water out of the boat. I served a spoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the
usual allowance of bread and water, for supper, breakfast, and dinner. At noon it was almost calm,
no sun to be seen, and some of us shivering with cold. Course since
yesterday W by N; distance 89 miles; latitude, by account, 14° 33'
S; longitude made 13° 9' W. The direction of my course is to pass
to the northward of the New Hebrides. Wednesday, May the 13th.
Very squally weather, wind southerly. As I saw no prospect of getting
our cloaths dried, I recommended it to everyone to strip, and wring
them through the salt water, by which means they received a warmth,
that, while wet with rain, they could not have, and we were less liable
to suffer from colds or rheumatic complaints. In the afternoon we saw a
kind of fruit on the water, which Mr. Nelson knew to be the
Barringtonia of Forster, and, as I saw the same again in the morning,
and some men of war birds, I was led to believe we were not far from
land. We continued constantly
shipping seas, and baling, and were very wet and cold in the night; but
I could not afford the allowance of rum at day-break. The twenty-fifth
of a pound of bread, and water I served as usual. At noon I had a sight
of the sun, latitude 14° 17' S; course W by N 79 miles; longitude
made 14° 28' W. Thursday, May the 14th.
Fresh breezes and cloudy weather, wind southerly. Constantly shipping
water, and very wet, suffering much cold and shiverings in the night.
Served the usual allowance of bread and water, three times a day. At six in the morning, we
saw land, from SW by S eight leagues, to NW by W3/4W six leagues, which
I soon after found to be four islands, all of them high -and
remarkable. At noon discovered a rocky island NW by N four leagues, and
another island Weight leagues, so that the whole were six in number;
the four I had first seen bearing from S1/2E to SW by S; our distance
three leagues from the nearest island. My latitude observed was 13°
29' S, and longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 15° 49' W; course
since yesterday noon N 63° W; distance 89 miles. Friday, May the 15th. Fresh
gales at SE, and gloomy weather with rain, and a very high sea; two
people constantly employed baling. At four in the afternoon I
passed the westernmost island. At one in the morning I discovered
another, bearing WNW, five leagues distance, and at eight o'clock I saw
it for the last time, bearing NE seven leagues. A number of gannets,
boobies, and men of war birds were seen. These islands lie between
the latitude of 13° 16' Sand 14° 10' S: their longitude,
according to my reckoning, 15° 51' to 17° 6' W from the island
Tofoa. The largest island may be twenty leagues in circuit, the others
five or six. The easternmost is the smallest island, and most
remarkable, having a high sugar-loaf hill. The sight of these islands
served but to increase the misery of our situation. We were very little
better than starving, with plenty in view; yet to attempt procuring any
relief was attended with so much danger, that prolonging of life, even
in the midst of misery, was thought preferable, while there remained
hopes of being able to surmount our hardships. For my own part, I
consider the general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a blessing of
Providence. Hot weather would have caused us to have died with thirst;
and perhaps being so constantly covered with rain or sea protected us
from that dreadful calamity. As I had nothing to assist
my memory, I could not determine whether these islands were a part of
the New Hebrides or not: I believed them perfectly a new discovery,
which I have since found to be the case; but, though they were not seen
either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain Cook, they are so nearly in
the neighbourhood of the New Hebrides, that they must be considered as
part of the same group. They are fertile, and inhabited, as I saw smoke
in several places. Saturday, May the 16th.
Fresh gales from the SE, and rainy weather. The night was very dark,
not a star to be seen to steer by, and the sea breaking constantly over
us. I found it necessary to act as much as possible against the
southerly winds, to prevent being driven too near New Guinea; for in
general we were forced to keep so much before the sea, that if we had
not, at intervals of moderate weather, steered a more southerly course,
we should inevitably, from a continuance of the gales, have been thrown
in sight of that coast: in which case there would most probably have
been an end to our voyage. In addition to our miserable
allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of
water, I issued for dinner about an ounce of salt pork to each person.
I was often solicited for this pork, but I considered it better to give
it in small quantities than to use all at once or twice, which would
have been done if I had allowed it. At noon I observed, in
13° 33' S; longitude made from Tofoa, 19° 27' W; course N
82° W; distance 101 miles. The sun gave us hopes of drying our wet
cloaths. Sunday, May the 17th. The
sunshine was but of short duration. We had strong breezes at SE by S,
and dark gloomy weather, with storms of thunder, lightning, and rain.
The night was truly horrible, and not a star to be seen; so that our
steerage was uncertain. At dawn f day I found every person complaining,
and some of them soliciting extra allowance; but I positively refused
it. Our situation was extremely miserable; always wet, and suffering
extreme cold in the night, without the least shelter from the weather.
Being constantly obliged to bale, to keep the boat from filling, was,
perhaps, not to be reckoned an evil, as it gave us exercise. The little rum I had was of
great service to us; when our nights were particularly distressing, I
generally served a tea-spoonful or two to each person: and it was
always joyful tidings when they heard of my intentions. At noon a water-spout was
very near on board of us. I issued an ounce of pork, in addition to the
allowance of bread and water; but before we began to eat, every person
stript and wrung their cloaths through the sea-water, which we found
warm and refreshing. Course since yesterday noon WSW; distance 100
miles; latitude, by account, 14° 11' S, and longitude made 21 °
3' W.. Monday, May the 18th. Fresh
gales with rain, and a dark dismal night, wind SE; the sea constantly
breaking over us, and nothing but the wind and sea to direct our
steerage. I now fully determined to make New Holland, to the southward
of Endeavour straits, sensible that it was necessary to preserve such a
situation as would make a southerly wind a fair one; that I might range
the reefs until an opening should be found into smooth water, and we
the sooner be able to pick up some refreshments. I In the morning the rain
abated, when we stripped, and wrung our cloaths through the sea-water,
as usual, which refreshed us wonderfully. Every person complained of
violent pain in their bones: I was only surprised that no one was yet
laid up. Served one 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint
of water, at supper, breakfast, and dinner, as customary. At noon I deduced my
situation, by account, for we had no glimpse of the sun, to be in
latitude 14° 52' S; course since yesterday noon WSW 106 miles;
longitude made from Tofoa 22° 45' W. Saw many boobies and noddies,
a sign of being in the neighbourhood of land. Tuesday, May the 19th. Fresh
gales at ENE, with heavy rain, and dark gloomy weather, and no sight of
the sun. We past this day miserably wet and cold, covered with rain and
sea, from which we had no relief, but at intervals by pulling off our
cloaths and wringing them through the sea water. In the night we had
very severe lightning, but otherwise it was so dark that we could not
see each other. The morning produced many
complaints on the severity of the weather, and I would gladly have
issued my allowance of rum, if it had not appeared to me that we were
to suffer much more, and that it was necessary to preserve the little I
had, to give relief at a time we might be less able to bear such
hardships; but, to make up for it, I served out about half an ounce of
pork to each person, with the common allowance of bread and water, for
dinner. All night and day we were obliged to bale without intermission. At noon it was very bad
weather and constant rain; latitude, by account, 14° 37' S; course
since yesterday N 81 ° W; distance 100 miles; longitude made
24° 30' W. ' Wednesday, May the 20th.
Fresh breezes ENE with constant rain; at times a deluge. Always baling. At dawn of day, some of my
people seemed half dead: our appearances were horrible; and I could
look no way, but I caught the eye of some one in distress. Extreme
hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from thirst, nor had we
much inclination to drink, that desire, perhaps, being satisfied
through the skin. The little sleep we got was in the midst of water,
and we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in our bones. This
morning I served about two teaspoonfuls of rum to each person, and the
allowance of bread and water, as usual. At noon the sun broke out, and
revived everyone. I found we were in latitude 14° 49' S; longitude
made 25° 46' W; course S 88° W; distance 75 miles. Thursday, May the 21st.
Fresh gales, and heavy showers of rain. Wind ENE.. Our distresses were now very
great, and we were so covered with rain and salt water, that we could
scarcely see. Sleep, though we longed for it, afforded no comfort: for
my own part, I almost lived without it: we suffered extreme cold, and
every one dreaded the approach of night. About two o'clock in the
morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of rain. It fell so heavy
that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and were obliged to bale
with all our might. At dawn of day, I served a large allowance of rum.
Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone, but we were miserably
cold and wet, the sea breaking so constantly over us, that,
notwithstanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to our
stock of fresh water. The usual allowance of one 25th of a pound of
bread and water was served at evening, morning, and noon. Latitude, by
observation, 14° 29' S, and longitude made, by account, from Tofoa,
27° 25' W; course, since yesterday noon, N 78°W, 99 miles. I
now considered myself on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea,
and about 65 leagues distant from the coast of New Holland. Friday, May the 22d. Strong
gales from ESE to SSE, a high sea, and dark dismal night. Our situation this day was
extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take the course of the sea,
running right before it, and watching with the utmost care, as the
least error in the helm would in a moment have been our destruction.
The sea was continually breaking all over us; but, as we suffered not
such cold as when wet with the rain, I only served the common allowance
of bread and water. At noon it blew very hard,
and the foam of the sea kept running over our stern and quarters; I
however got propped up, and made an observation of the latitude, in
14° 17' S; course N 85° W; distance 130 miles; longitude made
29° 38' west.. Saturday, May the 23d.
Strong gales with very hard squalls, and rain; wind SE, and SSE. The misery we suffered this
day exceeded the preceding. The night was dreadful. The sea flew over
us with great force, and kept us baling with horror and anxiety. At
dawn of day I found every one in a most distressed condition, and I now
began to fear that another such a night would put an end to the lives
of several who seemed no longer able to support such sufferings.
Everyone complained of severe pains in their bones; but these were
alleviated, in some degree, by an allowance of two tea-spoonfuls of
rum; after drinking which, having wrung our cloaths, and taken our
breakfast of bread and water, we became a little refreshed. Towards noon it became fair
weather; but with very little abatement of the gale, and the sea
remained equally high. With great difficulty I observed the latitude to
be 13° 44' S; course N 74° W; distance 116 miles since
yesterday; longitude made 31 ° 32' W from Tofoa. Sunday, May the 24th. Fresh
gales and fine weather; wind SSE and S. Towards the evening the
weather looked much better, which rejoiced all hands, so that they eat
their scanty allowance with more satisfaction than for some time past.
The night also was fair; but, being always wet with the sea, we
suffered much from the cold. A fine morning, I had the pleasure to see,
produce some chearful countenances. Towards noon the weather improved,
and, the first time for 15 days past, we found a little warmth from the
sun. We stripped, and hung our cloaths up to dry, which were by this
time become so thread-bare, that they would not keep out either wet or
cold. At noon I observed in
latitude 13° 33' S; longitude, by account, from Tofoa 33° 28'
W; course N 84° W; distance 114 miles. With the usual allowance of
bread and water for dinner, I served an ounce of pork to each person. Monday, May the 25th. Fresh
gales and fair weather. Wind SSE. This afternoon we had many birds
about us, which are never seen far from land, such as boobies and
noddies. About three o'clock the sea
began to run fair, and we shipped but little water, I therefore
determined to know the exact quantity of bread I had left; and on
examining found, according to my present issues, sufficient for 29 days
allowance. In the course of this time I hoped to be at Timor; but, as
that was very uncertain, and perhaps after all we might be obliged to
go to Java, I determined to proportion my issues to six weeks. I was
apprehensive that this would be ill received, and that it would require
my utmost resolution to enforce it; for, small as the quantity was
which I intended to take away, for our future good, yet it might appear
to my people like robbing them of life, and some, who were less patient
than their companions, I expected would very ill brook it. I however
represented it so essentially necessary to guard against delays in our
voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, promising to enlarge upon
the allowance as we got on, that it was readily agreed to. I therefore
fixed, that every person should receive one 25th of a pound of bread
for breakfast, and one 25th of a pound for dinner; so that by omitting
the proportion for supper, I had 43 days allowance. At noon some noddies came so
near to us, that one of them was caught by hand. This bird is about the
size of a small pigeon. I divided it, with its entrails, into 18
portions, and by the method of, Who shall have this ? it was
distributed with the allowance of bread and water for dinner, and eat
up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed the latitude
13° 32' S; longitude made 35° 19' W; and course N 89° W;
distance 108 miles. Tuesday, May the 26th. Fresh
gales at SSE, and fine weather. In the evening we saw
several boobies flying so near to us, that we caught one of them by
hand. This bird is as large as a good duck; like the noddy, it has
received its name from seamen, for suffering itself to be caught on the
masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive proofs of being
in the neighbourhood of land of any seafowl we are acquainted with. I
directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the blood to be given to
three of the people who were the most distressed for want of food. the
body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided into 18 shares, and
with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of granting, we made a
good supper, compared with our usual fare. In the morning we caught
another booby, so that Providence seemed to be relieving our wants in a
very extraordinary manner. Towards noon we passed a great many pieces
of the branches of trees, some of which appeared to have been no long
time in the water. I had a good observation for the latitude, and found
my situation to be in 13° 41' S; my longitude, by account, from
Tofoa, 37° 13' W; course S 85° W, 112 miles. Every person was
now overjoyed at the addition to their dinner, which I distributed as I
had done in the evening; giving the blood to those who were the most in
want of food. To make our bread a little
savoury we frequently dipped it in salt water; but for my own part I
generally broke mine into small pieces, and eat it in my allowance of
water, out of a cocoa-nut shell, with a spoon, economically avoiding to
take too large a piece at a time, so that I was as long at dinner as if
it had been a much more plentiful meal. Wednesday, May the 27th.
Fresh breezes south-easterly, and fine weather. The weather was now serene,
but unhappily we found ourselves unable to bear the sun's heat; many of
us suffering a languor and faintness, which made life indifferent. We
were, however, so fortunate as to catch two boobies to-day; their
stomachs contained several flying-fish and small cuttlefish, all of
which I saved to be divided for dinner. We passed much drift wood,
and saw many birds; I therefore did not hesitate to pronounce that we
were near the reefs of New Holland, and assured everyone I would make
the coast without delay, in the parallel we were in, and range the reef
till I found an opening, through which we might get into smooth water,
and pick up some supplies. From my recollection of captain Cook's
survey of this coast, I considered the direction of it to be NW, and I
was therefore satisfied that, with the wind to the southward of E, I
could always clear any dangers. At noon I observed in
latitude 13° 26' S; course since yesterday N 82° W; distance
109 miles; longitude made 39° 4' W. After writing my account, I
divided the two birds with their entrails, and the contents of their
maws, into 18 portions, and, as the prize was a very valuable one, it
was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have this? so that
to-day, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at breakfast,
and another at dinner, with the proportion of water, I was happy to see
that every person thought he had feasted. Thursday, May the 28th.
Fresh breezes and fair weather; wind ESE and E. In the evening we saw a
gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in the west, that I had little
doubt of our being near to New Holland; and every person, after taking
his allowance of water for supper, began to divert himself with
conversing on the probability of what we should find. At one in the morning the
person at the helm heard the sound of breakers, and I no sooner lifted
up my head, than I saw them close under our lee, not more than a
quarter of a mile distant from us. I immediately hauled on a wind to
the NNE, and in ten minutes time we could neither see nor hear them. I have already mentioned my
reason for making New Holland so far to the southward; for I never
doubted of numerous openings in the reef, through which I could have
access to the shore: and, knowing the inclination of the coast to be to
the NW, and the wind mostly to the southward of E, I could with ease
range such a barrier of reefs till I should find a passage, which now
became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss of time. The idea
of getting into smooth water, and finding refreshments, kept my
people's spirits up: their joy was very great after we had got clear of
the breakers, to which we had been much nearer than I thought was
possible to be before we saw them. In the morning, at
day-light, I bore away again for the reefs, and saw them by nine o'clock.
The sea broke furiously over every part, and I had no sooner got near
to them, than the wind came at E, so that we could only lie along the
line of the breakers, within which we saw the water so smooth, that
every person already anticipated the heart-felt satisfaction he would
receive, as soon as we could get within them. But I now found we were
embayed, for I could not lie clear with my sails, the wind having
backed against us, and the sea set in so heavy towards the reef that
our situation was become dangerous. We could effect but little with the
oars, having scarce strength to pull them; and it was becoming every
minute more and more probable that we should be obliged to attempt
pushing over the reef, in case we could not pull off. Even this I did
not despair of effecting with success, when happily we discovered a
break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at the same time an
island of a moderate height within it, nearly in the same direction,
bearing W ½ N. I entered the passage with a strong stream
running to the westward, and found it about a quarter of a mile broad,
with every appearance of deep water. On the outside, the reef
inclined to the NE for a few miles, and from thence to the NW; on the
south side of the entrance, it inclined to the SSW as far as I could
see it; and I conjecture that a similar passage to this which we now
entered, may be found near the breakers that I first discovered, which
are 23 miles S of this channel. I did not recollect what
latitude providential channel" lies in, but I considered it to be
within a few miles of this, which is situated in 12° 51' S
latitude. Being now happily within the
reefs, and in smooth water, I endeavored to keep near them to try for
fish; but the tide set us to the NW; I therefore bore away in that
direction, and, having promised to land on the first convenient spot we
could find, all our past hardships seemed already to be forgotten. At noon I had a good
observation, by which our latitude was 12° 46 S, whence the
foregoing situations may be considered as determined with some
exactness. The island first seen bore WSW five leagues. This, which I
have called the island Direction, will in fair weather always shew the
channel, from which it bears due W, and ay be seen as soon as the
reefs, from a ship's mast-head: it lies in the altitude of 12° 51'
S. There, however, are marks too small for a ship to hit, unless it can
hereafter be ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous
along the coast, which I am inclined to think they are, and then there
would be little risk if the wind was not directly on the shore. My longitude, made by dead
reckoning, from the island Tofoa to our passage through the reef, is
40° 10' W. Providential channel, I imagine, must lie very nearly
under the same meridian with our passage; by which it appears we had
out-run our reckoning 1°9'. We now returned God thanks
for his gracious protection, and with much content took our miserable
allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of
water, for dinner. Friday, May the 29th.
Moderate breezes and fine weather, wind ESE. As we advanced within the
reefs, the coast began to shew itself very distinctly, with a variety
of high and low land; some parts of which were covered with wood. In
our way towards the shore we fell in with a point of a reef, which is
connected with that towards the sea, and here I came to a grapnel, and
tried to catch fish, but had no success. The island Direction now bore
S three or four leagues. Two islands lay about four miles to the W by
N, and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if nothing more; but on
my approach to the first I found it only a heap of stones, and its size
too inconsiderable to shelter the boat. I therefore proceeded to the
next, which was close to it and towards the main, where, on the NW
side, I found a bay and a fine sandy point to land at. Our distance was
about a quarter of a mile from a projecting part of the main, bearing
from SW by S, to NNW ¾ W. I now landed to examine if there were
any signs of the natives being near us; but though I discovered some
old fireplaces, I saw nothing to alarm me for our situation during the
night. Every one was anxious to find something to eat, and I soon heard
that there were oysters on the rocks, for the tide was out; but it was
nearly dark, and only a few could be gathered. I determined therefore
to wait till the morning, to know how to proceed, and I consented that
one half of us should sleep on shore, and the other in the boat. We
would gladly have made a fire, but, as we could not accomplish it, we
took our rest for the night, which happily was calm and undisturbed. The dawn of day brought
greater strength and spirits to us than I expected; for,
notwithstanding every one was very weak, there appeared strength
sufficient remaining to make me conceive the most favorable hopes of
our being able to surmount the difficulties we might yet have to
encounter. As soon as I saw that there
were not any natives immediately near us, I sent out parties in search
of supplies, while others were putting the boat in order, that I might
be ready to go to sea in case any unforeseen cause might make it
necessary. The first object of this work, that demanded our attention,
was the rudder: one of the gudgeons had come out, in the course of the
night, and was lost. This, if it had happened at sea, would probably
have been the cause of our perishing, as the management of the boat
could not have been so nicely preserved as these very heavy seas
required. I had often expressed my fears of this accident, and, that we
might be prepared for it, had taken the precaution to have grummets
fixed on each quarter of the boat for oars; but even our utmost
readiness in using them, I fear, would not have saved us. It appears,
therefore, a providential circumstance, that it happened at this place,
and was in our power to remedy the defect; for by great good luck we
found a large staple in the boat that answered the purpose. The parties were now
returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty of oysters and fresh
water. I also had made a fire, by help of a small magnifying glass,
that I always carried about me, to read off the divisions of my
sextants; and, what was still more fortunate, among the few things
which had been thrown into the boat and saved, was a piece of brimstone
and a tinder-box, so that I secured fire for the future. One of my people had been so
provident as to bring away with him a copper pot: it was by being in
possession of this article that I was enabled to make a proper use of
the supply we found, for, with a mixture of bread and a little pork, I
made a stew that might have been relished by people of more delicate
appetites, of which each person received a full pint. The general complaints of
disease among us, were a dizziness in the head, great weakness of the
joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us having had no evacuation by
stool since we left the ship. I had constantly a severe pain at my
stomach; but none of our complaints were alarming; on the contrary,
everyone retained marks of strength, that, with a mind possessed of any
fortitude, could bear more fatigue than I hoped we had to undergo in
our voyage to Timor. As I would not allow the
people to expose themselves to the heat of the sun, it being near noon,
everyone took his allotment of earth, shaded by the bushes, for a short
sleep. The oysters we found grew so
fast to the rocks that it was with difficulty they could be broke off,
and at last we discovered it to be the most expeditious way to open
them where they were found. They were very sizeable, and well tasted,
and gave us great relief. To add to this happy circumstance, in the
hollow of the land there grew some wiregrass, which indicated a moist
situation. On forcing a stick, about three feet long, into the ground,
we found water, and with little trouble dug a well, which produced as
much as we were in need of. It was very good, but I could not determine
if it was a spring or not. Our wants made it not necessary to make the
well deep, for it flowed as fast as we emptied it; which, as the soil
was apparently too loose to retain water from the rains, renders it
probable to be a spring. It lies about 200 yards to the SE of a point
in the SW part of the island. I found evident signs of the
natives resorting to this island; for, besides fire-places, I saw two
miserable wig-warns, having only one side loosely covered. We found a
pointed stick, about three feet long, with a slit in the end of it, to
sling stones with, the same as the natives of Van Diemen's land use. The track of some animal was
very discernible, and Mr. Nelson agreed with me that it was the
Kanguroo; but how these animals can get from the main I know not,
unless brought over by the natives to breed, that they may take them
with more ease, and render a supply of food certain to them; as on the
continent the catching of them may be precarious, or attended with
great trouble, in so large an extent of country. The island may be about two
miles in circuit; it is a high lump of rocks and stones covered with
wood; but the trees are small, the soil, which is very indifferent and
sandy, being barely sufficient to produce them. The trees that came
within our knowledge were the manchineal and a species of purow: also
some palm-trees, the tops of which we cut down, and the soft interior
part or heart of them was so palatable that it made a good addition to
our mess. Mr. Nelson discovered some fern-roots, which I thought might
be good roasted, as a substitute for bread, but it proved a very poor
one: it however was very good in its natural state to allay thirst, and
on that account I directed a quantity to be collected to take into the
boat. Many pieces of cocoanut shells and husk were found about the
shore, but we could find no cocoanut trees, neither did I see any like
them on the main. I had cautioned everyone not
to touch any kind of berry or fruit that they might find; yet they were
no sooner out of my sight than they began to make free with three
different kinds, that grew all over the island, eating without any
reserve. The symptoms of having eaten too much, began at last to
frighten some of them; but on questioning others, who had taken a more
moderate allowance, their minds were a little quieted. The others,
however, became equally alarmed in their turn, dreading that such
symptoms would come on, and that they were all poisoned, so that they
regarded each other with the strongest marks of apprehension, uncertain
what would be the issue of their imprudence. Happily the fruit proved
wholesome and good. One sort grew on a small delicate kind of vine;
they were the size of a large gooseberry, and very like in substance,
but had only a sweet taste; the skin was a pale red, streaked with
yellow the long way of the fruit: it was pleasant and agreeable.
Another kind grew on bushes, like that, which is called the seaside
grape in the West Indies; but the fruit was very different, and more
like elderberries, growing in clusters in the same manner. The third
sort was a black berry, not in such plenty as the others, and resembled
a bullace, or large kind of sloe, both in size and taste. Seeing these
fruits eaten by the birds made me consider them fit for use, and those
who had already tried the experiment, not finding any bad effect, made
it a certainty that we might eat of them without danger. Wild pigeons, parrots, and
other birds, were about the summit of the island, but, as I had no
fire-arms, relief of that kind was not to be expected, unless I met
with some unfrequented spot where we might take them with our hands. On the south side of the
island, and about half a mile from the well, a small run of water was
found; but, as its source was not traced, I know nothing more of it. The shore of this island is
very rocky, except the part we landed at, and here I picked up many
pieces of pumice-stone. On the part of the main next to us were several
sandy bays, but at low water they became an extensive rocky flat. The
country had rather a barren appearance, except in a few places where it
was covered with wood. A remarkable range of rocks lay a few miles to
the SW, or a high peaked hill terminated the coast towards the sea,
with other high lands and islands to the southward. A high fair cape
showed the direction of the coast to the NW, about seven leagues, and
two small isles lay three or four leagues to the northward. I saw a few bees or wasps,
several lizards, and the blackberry bushes were full of ants nests,
webbed as a spider's, but so close and compact as not to admit the rain. A trunk of a tree, about 50
feet long, lay on the beach; from whence I conclude a heavy sea runs in
here with the northerly winds. This being the day of the
restoration of king Charles the Second, and the name not being
inapplicable to our present situation (for we were restored to fresh
life and strength), I named this Restoration Island; for I thought it
probable that captain Cook might not have taken notice of it. The other
names I have presumed to give the different parts of the coast will be
only to show my route a little more distinctly. At noon I found the latitude
of the island to be 12° 39' S; our course having been N 66° W;
distance 18 miles from yesterday noon. Saturday, May the 30th. Very
fine weather, and ESE winds. This afternoon I sent parties out again to
gather oysters, with which and some of the inner part of the palm-top,
we made another good stew for supper, each person receiving a full pint
and a half; but I refused bread to this meal, for I considered our
wants might yet be very great, and as such I represented the necessity
of saving our principal support whenever it was in our power. At night we again divided, and one half of us slept on shore by a good fire. In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in every one for the better, and I sent them away again to gather oysters. I had now only two pounds of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under lock and key as I did the bread, had been pilfered by some inconsiderate person, but everyone most solemnly denied it; I therefore resolved to put it out of their power for the future, by sharing what remained for our dinner. While the party was out getting oysters, I got the boat in readiness for sea, and filled all our water vessels, which amounted to nearly 60 gallons. The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, and every one had as good an allowance as they had for supper; for with the pork I gave an allowance of bread; and I was determined forthwith to push on. As it was not yet noon, I told everyone that an exertion should be made to gather as many oysters as possible for a sea store, as I was determined to sail in the afternoon. At noon I again observed the
latitude 12° 39' S; it was then high-water, the tide had risen
three feet, but I could not be certain which way the flood came from. I
deduce the time of high water at full and change to be ten minutes past
seven in the morning. Sunday, May the 31st. Early in the afternoon, the people returned
with the few oysters they had time to pick up, and every thing was put
into the boat. I then examined the quantity of bread remaining, and
found 38 days allowance, a<:;cording to the last mode of issuing
a25th of a pound at breakfast and at dinner. Fair weather, and moderate
breezes at ESE and SE. Being all ready for sea, I
directed every person to attend prayers, and by four o'clock we were
preparing to embark; when twenty natives appeared, running and
holloaing to us, on the opposite shore. They were armed with a spear or
lance, and a short weapon which they carried in their left hand: they
made signs for us to come to them. On the top of the hills we saw the
heads of many more; whether these were their wives and children, or
others who waited for our landing, until which they meant not to show
themselves, lest we might be intimidated, I cannot say; but, as I found
we were discovered to be on the coast, I thought it prudent to make the
best of my way, for fear of canoes; though, from the accounts of
captain Cook, the chance was that there were very few or none of any
consequence. I passed these people as near as I could, which was within
a quarter of a mile; they were naked, and apparently black, and their
hair or wool bushy and short. I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the north of Restoration Island, passing between them and the main land, towards Fair Cape, with a strong tide in my favor; so that I was abreast of it by eight o'clock. The coast I had passed was high and woody. As I could see no land without Fair Cape, I concluded that the coast inclined to the NW and WNW, which was agreeable to my recollection of Captain Cook's survey. I therefore steered more towards the W; but by eleven o'clock at night I found myself mistaken: for we met with low land, which inclined to the NE; so that at three 0' clock in the morning I found we were embayed, which obliged us to stand back to the southward. At day-break I was
exceedingly surprised to find the appearance of the country all
changed, as if in the course of the night I had been transported to
another part of the world; for we had now a miserable low sandy coast
in view, with very little verdure, or any thing to indicate that it was
at all habitable to a human being, if I except some patches of small
trees or brush-wood. I had many small islands in
view to the NE, about six miles distant. The E part of the main bore N
four miles, and Fair Cape SSE five or six leagues. I took the channel
between the nearest island and the main land, about one mile apart,
leaving all the islands on the starboard side. Some of these were very
pretty spots, covered with wood, and well situated for fishing: large
shoals of fish were about us, but we could not catch any.- As I was
passing this strait we saw another party of Indians, seven in number,
running towards us, shouting and making signs for us to land. Some of
them waved green branches of the bushes, which were near them, as a
sign of friendship; but there were some of their other motions less
friendly. A larger party we saw a little farther off, and coming
towards us. I therefore determined not to land, though I wished much to
have had some intercourse with these people; for which purpose I
beckoned to them to come near to me, and laid the boat close to the
rocks; but not one would come within 200 yards of us. They were armed
in the same manner as those I had seen from Restoration Island, were
stark naked, and appeared to be jet black, with short bushy hair or
wool, and in every respect the same people. An island of good height
now bore N ½ W, four miles from us, at which I resolved to see
what could be got, and from thence to take a look at the coast. At this
isle I landed about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky,
with some sandy beaches within the rocks: the water, however, was
smooth, and I landed without difficulty. I sent two parties out, one to
the northward, and the other to the southward, to seek for supplies,
and others I ordered to stay by the boat. On this occasion their
fatigue and weakness so far got the better of their sense of duty, that
some of them began to mutter who had done most, and declared they would
rather be without their dinner than go in search of it. One person, in
particular, went so far as to tell me, with a mutinous look, he was as
good a man as myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this
might have an end, if not stopped in time; I therefore determined to
strike a final blow at it, and either to preserve my command, or die in
the attempt: and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of
another and defend himself; on which he called out I was going to kill
him, and began to make concessions. I did not allow this to interfere
further with the harmony of the boat's crew, and every thing soon
became quiet. The parties continued
collecting what could be found, which consisted of some fine oysters
and clams, and a few small dogfish that were caught in the holes of the
rocks. We also found about two tons of rainwater in the hollow of the
rocks, on the north part of the island, so that of this essential
article we were again so happy as not to be in want. After regulating the mode of
proceeding, I set off for the highest part of the island, to see and
consider of my route for the night. To my surprise I could see no more
of the main than I did from below, it extending only from S ½ E,
four miles, to W by N, about three leagues, full of sand-hills. Besides
the isles to the ESE and south, that I had seen before, I could only
discover a small key NW by N. As this was considerably farther from the
main than where I was at present, I resolved to get there by night, it
being a more secure resting place; for I was here open to an attack, if
the Indians had canoes, as they undoubtedly observed my landing. My
mind being made up on this point, I returned, taking a particular look
at the spot I was on, which I found only to produce a few bushes and
coarse grass, and the extent of the whole not two miles in circuit. On
the north side, in a sandy bay, I saw an old canoe, about 33 feet long,
lying bottom upwards, and half buried in the beach. It was made of
three pieces, the bottom entire, to which the sides were sewed in the
common way. It had a sharp projecting prow rudely carved, in
resemblance of the head of a fish; the extreme breadth was about three
feet, and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men. At noon the parties were all
returned, but had found difficulty in gathering the oysters, from their
close adherence to the rocks, and the clams were scarce: I therefore
saw, that it would be of little use to remain longer in this place, as
we should not be able to collect more than we could eat; nor could any
tolerable sea-store be expected, unless we fell in with a greater
plenty. I named this Sunday Island: it lies N by W ¾ W from
Restoration Island; the latitude, by a good observation, 11° 58' S. Monday, June the 1st. Fresh breezes and fair weather, ending with a
fresh gale. Wind SE by S. At two o'clock in the
afternoon, we dined; each person having a full pint and a half of
stewed oysters and clams, thickened with small beans, which Mr. Nelson
informed us were a species of Dolichos. Having eaten heartily, and
taken the water we were in want of, I only waited to determine the time
of high-water, which I found to be at three o'clock, and the rise of
the tide about five feet. According to this it is high water on the
full and change at 19 minutes past 9 in the morning; but here I
observed the flood to come from the southward, though at Restoration
Island, I thought it came from the northward. I
think Captain Cook mentions that he found great irregularity in the set
of the flood on this coast. I now sailed for the key
which I had seen in the NW by N, giving the name of Sunday Island to
the place I left; we arrived just at dark, but found it so surrounded
by a reef of rocks, that I could not land without danger of staving the
boat; and on that account I came to a grapnel for the night. At dawn of day we got on
shore, and tracked the boat into shelter; for the wind blowing fresh
without, and the ground being rocky, I was afraid to trust her at a
grapnel, lest she might be blown to sea: I was, therefore, obliged to
let her ground in the course of the ebb. From appearances, I expected
that if we remained till night we should meet with turtle, as we had
already discovered recent tracks of them. Innumerable birds of the
noddy kind made this island their resting-place; so that I had reason
to flatter myself with hopes of getting supplies in greater abundance
than it had hitherto been in my power. The situation was at least four
leagues distant from the main. We were on
the north-westernmost of four small keys, which were surrounded by a
reef of rocks connected by sand-banks, except between the two
northernmost; and there likewise it was dry at low water; the whole
forming a lagoon island, into which the tide flowed: at this entrance I
kept the boat. As usual, I sent parties
away in search of supplies, but, to our great disappointment, we could
only get a few clams and some dolichos: with these, and the oysters we
had brought from Sunday Island, I made up a mess for dinner, with an
addition of a small quantity of bread. Towards noon, Mr. Nelson,
and his party, who had been to the easternmost key, returned; but
himself in such a weak condition, that he was obliged to be supported
by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his bowels, a loss of
sight, much drought, and an inability to walk. This I found was
occasioned by his being unable to support the heat of the sun, and
that, when he was fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the
shade to rest, he had continued to do more than his strength was equal
to. It was a great satisfaction to me to find, that he had no fever;
and it was now that the little wine, which I had so carefully saved,
became of real use. I gave it in very small quantities, with some small
pieces of bread soaked in it; and, having pulled off his clothes, and
laid him under some shady bushes, he began to recover. The boatswain
and carpenter also were ill, and complained of head-ach, and sickness
of the stomach; others, who had not had any evacuation by stool, became
shockingly distressed with the tenesmus; so that there were but few
without complaints. An idea now prevailed, that their illness was
occasioned by eating the dolichos, and some were so much alarmed that
they thought themselves poisoned. Myself, however, and some others, who
had eaten of them, were yet very well; but the truth was, that all
those who were complaining, except Mr. Nelson, had gorged themselves
with a large quantity of raw beans, and Mr. Nelson informed me, that
they were constantly teasing him, whenever a berry was found, to know
if it was good to eat; so that it would not have been surprising if
many of them had been really poisoned. Our dinner was not so well
relished as at Sunday Island, because we had mixed the dolichos with
our stew. The oysters and soup, however, were eaten by everyone, except
Mr. Nelson, whom I fed with a few small pieces of bread soaked in half
a glass of wine, and he continued to mend. In my walk round the island,
I found several cocoa-nut shells, the remains of an old wigwam, and the
backs of two turtle, but no sign of any quadruped. One of my people
found three seafowl's eggs. As is common on such spots,
the soil is little other than sand, yet it produced small toa-trees,
and some others, that we were not acquainted with. There were fish in
the lagoon, but we could not catch any. As our wants, therefore, were
not likely to be supplied here, not even with water for our daily
expense, I determined to sail in the morning, after trying our success
in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's rest also, I
conceived, would be of essential service to those who were unwell. From the wigwam and
turtle-shell being found, it is certain that the natives sometimes
resort to this place, and have canoes: but I did not apprehend that we
ran any risk by remaining here. I directed our fire, however, to be
made in the thicket, that we might not be discovered in the night. At noon, I observed the
latitude of this island to be 11° 47' S. The main land extended
towards the NW, and was full of white sand hills: another small island
lay within us, bearing W by N ¼ N, three leagues distant. My
situation being very low, I could see nothing of the reef towards the
sea. Tuesday, June the 2d. The
first part of this day we had some light showers of rain; the latter
part was fair, wind from the SE, blowing fresh. Rest was now so much wanted,
that the afternoon was advantageously spent in sleep. There were,
however, a few not disposed to it, and those I employed in dressing
some clams to take with us for the next day's dinner; others we cut up
in slices to dry, which I knew was the most valuable supply we could
find here. But, contrary to our expectation, they were very scarce. Towards evening, I cautioned
everyone against making too large a fire, or suffering it after dark to
blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover had the superintendence of this
business, while I was strolling about the beach to observe if I thought
it could be seen from the main. I was just satisfied that it could not,
when on a sudden the island appeared all in a blaze, that might have
been seen at a much more considerable distance. I ran to learn the
cause, and found it was occasioned by the imprudence and obstinacy of
one of the party, who, in my absence, had insisted on having a fire to
himself; in making which the flames caught the neighboring grass and
rapidly spread. This misconduct might have produced very serious
consequences, by discovering our situation to the natives; for, if they
had attacked us, we must inevitably have fallen a sacrifice, as we had
neither arms nor strength to oppose an enemy. Thus the relief, which I
expected from a little sleep, was totally lost, and I anxiously waited
for the flowing of the tide, that we might proceed to sea. I found it high-water at
half past five this evening, whence I deduce the time, on the full and
change of the moon, to be 58' past 10 in the morning: the rise is
nearly five feet. I could not observe the set of the flood; but imagine
it comes from the southward, and that I have been mistaken at
Restoration Island, as I find the time of high water gradually later as
we advance to the northward. At Restoration Island, high
water, full and change,………………………………………..7° 10' Sunday
Island,………………………………………………………………………………………9 19 Here,…………………………………………………………………………………………………..10
58 After eight o'clock, Mr.
Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to watch for turtle, and three men
went to the east key to endeavor to catch birds. All the others
complaining of being sick, took their rest, except Mr. Hayward and Mr.
Elphinston, who I directed to keep watch. About midnight the bird party
returned, with only twelve noddies, a bird I have already described to
be about the size of a pigeon: but if it had not been for the folly and
obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the other two, and
disturbed the birds, they might have caught a great number. I was so
much provoked at my plans being thus defeated, that I gave the
offender'_ a good beating. I now went in search of the turtling party,
who had taken great pains, but without success. This, however, did not
surprise me, as it was not to be expected that turtle would come near
us after the noise, which was made at the beginning of the evening in
extinguishing the fire. I therefore desired them to come back, but they
requested to stay a little longer, as they still hoped to find some
before day-light: they, however, returned by three o'clock, without any
reward for their labour. The birds we half dressed,
which, with a few clams, made the whole of the supply procured here. I
tied up a few gilt buttons and some pieces of iron to a tree, for any
of the natives that might come after us; and, happily finding my
invalids much better for their night's rest, I got every one into the
boat, and departed by dawn of day. Wind at SE; course to the N by W. We had scarcely ran two
leagues to the northward, when the sea suddenly became rough, which not
having experienced since we were within the reefs, I concluded to be
occasioned by an open channel to the ocean. Soon afterwards we met with
a large shoal, on which were two sandy keys; between these and two
others, four miles to the west, I passed on to the northward, the sea
still continuing to be rough. Towards noon, I fell in with
six other keys, most of which produced some small trees and brushwood.
These formed a pleasing contrast with the main land we had passed,
which was full of sand hills. The country continued hilly, and the
northernmost land, the same which we saw from the lagoon island,
appeared like downs, sloping towards the sea. To the southward of this
is a flat-topped hill, which, on account of its shape, I called
Pudding-pan hill, and a little to the northward two other hills, which
we called the Paps; and here was a small tract of country without sand,
the eastern par_ of which forms a cape, whence the coast inclines to
the NW by N. At noon I observed in the
latitude of 11° 18' S, the cape bearing W, distant ten miles. Five
small keys bore from NE to SE, the nearest of them about two miles
distant, and a low sandy key between us and the cape bore W, distant
four miles. My course from the Lagoon Island N ½ W, distant 30
miles. I am sorry it was not in my
power to obtain a sufficient knowledge of the depth of water; for in
our situation nothing could beundertaken that might have occasioned
delay. It may however be understood, that, to the best of my judgment,
from appearances, a ship may pass wherever I have omitted to represent
danger. I divided six birds, and
issued one 25th of a pound of bread, with half a pint of water, to each
person for dinner, and I gave half a glass of wine to Mr. Nelson, who
was now so far recovered as to require no other indulgence. The gunner, when he left the
ship, brought his watch with him, by which we had regulated our time
till to-day, when unfortunately it stopped; so that noon, sun-rise, and
sun-set, are the only parts of the 24 hours of which I can speak with
certainty, as to time. Wednesday, June the 3d.
Fresh gales SSE and SE, and fair weather. As we stood to the N by W
this afternoon, we found more sea, which I attributed to our receiving
less shelter from the reefs to the eastward: it is probable they do not
extend so far to the N as this; at least, it may be concluded that
there is not a continued barrier to prevent shipping having access to
the shore. I observed that the stream set to the NW, which I considered
to be the flood; in some places along the coast, we saw patches of
wood. At five o'clock, steering to the NW, we passed a large and fair
inlet, into which, I imagine, is a safe and commodious entrance; it
lies in latitude 11° S: about three leagues to the northward of
this is an island, at which we arrived about sun-set, and took shelter
for the night under a sandy point, which was the only part we could
land at: I was therefore under the necessity to put up with rather a
wild situation, and slept in the boat. Nevertheless
I sent a party away to see what could be got, but they returned without
any success. They saw a great number of turtle bones and shells, where
the natives had been feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of
late date. The island was covered with wood, but in other respects a
lump of rocks. We lay at a grapnel until daylight, with a very fresh
gale and cloudy weather. The main bore from SE by S to NNW ½ W,
three leagues; and a mountainous island, with a flat top, N by W, four
or five leagues: several others were between it and the main. The spot
we were on, which I call Turtle Island, lies in latitude, by account,
10° 52' S, and 42 miles W from Restoration Island. Abreast of it
the coast has the appearance of a sandy desert, but improves about
three leagues farther to the northward, where it terminates in a point,
near to which is a number of small islands. I sailed between these
islands, where I found no bottom at twelve fathoms; the high
mountainous island with a flat top, and four rocks to the SE of it,
that I call the Brothers, being on my starboard hand. Soon after, an
extensive opening appeared in the main land, with a number of high
islands in it. I called this the Bay of Islands. We continued steering
to the NW. Several islands and keys lay to the northward. The most
northerly island was mountainous, having on it a very high round hill;
and a smaller was remarkable for a single peaked hill. The coast to the northward
and westward of the Bay of Islands had a very different appearance from
that to the southward. It was high and woody, with many islands close
to it, and had a very broken appearance. Among these islands are fine
bays, and convenient places for shipping. The northernmost I call
Wednesday Island: to the NW of this we fell in with a large reef, which
I believe joins a number of keys that were in sight from the NW to the
ENE. We now stood to the SW half a league, when it was noon, and I had
a good observation of the latitude in 10° 31' S. Wednesday Island
bore E by S five miles; the westernmost land SW two or three leagues;
the islands to the northward, from NW by W four or five leagues, to NE
six leagues; and the reef from W to NE, distant one mile. I now assured
every one that we should be clear of New Holland in the afternoon. It is impossible for me to
say how far this reef may extend. It may be a continuation, or a
detached part of the range of shoals that surround the coast: but be
that as it may, I consider the mountainous islands as separate from the
shoals; and have no doubt that near them may be found good passages for
ships. But I rather recommend to those who are to pass this strait from
the eastward, to take their direction from the coast of New Guinea:
yet, I likewise think that a ship coming from the southward, will find
a fair strait in the latitude of 10° S. I much wished to have
ascertained this point; but in our distressful situation, any increase
of fatigue, or loss of time, might have been attended with the most
fatal consequences. I therefore determined to pass on without delay. As an addition to our dinner
of bread and water, I served to each person six oysters. Thursday, June the 4th.
A fresh gale at SE, and fair weather. At two o'clock, as we were
steering to the SW, towards the westernmost part of the land in sight,
we fell in with some large sandbanks that run off from the coast. We
were therefore obliged to steer to the northward again, and, having got
round them, I directed my course to the W. At four o'clock, the
westernmost of the islands to the northward bore N four leagues;
Wednesday island E by N five leagues; and Shoal Cape SE by E two
leagues. A small island was now seen bearing W, at which I arrived
before dark, and found that it was only a rock, where boobies resort,
for which reason I called it Booby Island. A
small key also lies close to the W part of the coast, which I have
called Shoal Cape. Here terminated the rocks and shoals of the N part
of New Holland, for, except Booby Island, we could see no land to the
westward of S, after three o'clock this afternoon. I find that Booby Island was
seen by Captain Cook, and, by a remarkable coincidence of ideas,
received from him the same name; but I cannot with certainty reconcile
the situation of many parts of the coast that I have seen, to his
survey. I ascribe this to the very different form in which land
appears, when seen from the unequal heights of a ship and a boat. The
chart I have given, is by no means meant to supersede that made by
Captain Cook, who had better opportunities than I had, and was in every
respect properly provided for surveying. The
intention of mine is chiefly to render the narrative more intelligible,
and to shew in what manner the coast appeared to me from an open boat.
I have little doubt that the opening, which I named the Bay of Islands,
is Endeavour Straits; and that our track was to the northward of Prince
of Wales's Isles. Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter navigate these
seas, more advantage may be derived from the possession of both our
charts, than from either singly. At eight o'clock in the
evening, we once more launched into the open ocean. Miserable as our
situation was in every respect, I was secretly surprised to see that it
did not appear to affect anyone so strongly as myself; on the contrary,
it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage to Timor, in a vessel
sufficiently calculated for safety and convenience. So much confidence
gave me great pleasure, and I may assert that to this cause their
preservation is chiefly to be attributed; for if anyone of them had
despaired, he would most probably have died before we reached New
Holland. I now gave everyone hopes
that eight or ten days might bring us to a land of safety; and, after
praying to God for a continuance of his most gracious protection, I
served an allowance of water for supper, and kept my course to the WSW,
to counteract the southerly winds, in case they should blow strong. We had been just six days on
the coast of New Holland, in the course of which we found oysters, a
few clams, some birds, and water. But perhaps a benefit nearly equal to
this we received from not having fatigue in the boat, and enjoying good
rest at night. These advantages certainly preserved our lives; for,
small as the supply was, I am very sensible how much it relieved our
distresses. About this time nature would have sunk under the extremes
of hunger and fatigue. Some would have ceased to struggle for a life
that only promised wretchedness and misery; while others, though
possessed of more bodily strength, must soon have followed their
unfortunate companions. Even in our present situation, we were most
wretched spectacles; yet our fortitude and spirit remained; everyone
being encouraged by the hopes of a speedy termination to his misery. For my own part, wonderful
as it may appear, I felt neither extreme hunger nor thirst. My
allowance contented me, knowing I could have no more. I served one 25th of a pound
of bread, and an allowance of water, for breakfast, and the same for
dinner, with an addition of six oysters to each person. At noon,
latitude observed 10° 48' S; course since yesterday noon S 81 W;
distance 111 miles; longitude, by account, from Shoal Cape 1° 45' W. Friday, June the 5th.
Fair weather with some showers, and a strong trade wind at ESE. This day we saw a number of
water snakes, that were ringed yellow and black, and towards noon we
passed a great deal of rockweed. Though the weather was fair, we were
constantly shipping water, and two men always employed to bale the boat. At noon I observed in
latitude 10° 45' S; our course since yesterday W_N, 108 miles;
longitude made 3° 35' W. Served one 25th of a pound of bread, and a
quarter of a pint of water for breakfast; the same for dinner, with an
addit_on of six oysters; for supper water only. Saturday, June the 6th. Fair
weather, with some showers, and a fresh gale at SE and ESE. Constantly
shipping water and baling. In the evening a few boobies
came about us, one of which I caught with my hand. The blood was
divided among three of the men who were weakest, but the bird I ordered
to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served a quarter of a pint of
water for supper, and to some, who were most in need, half a pint. In
the course of the night we suffered much cold and shiverings. At
daylight, I found that some of the clams, which had been hung up to dry
for sea-store, were stolen; but everyone most solemnly denied having
any knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark, and
some water snakes, which in general were from two to three feet long. Served the usual allowance
of bread and water for breakfast, and the same for dinner, with the
bird, which I distributed in the usual way, of Who shall have this? I
determined to make Timor about the latitude of 9° 30' S, or 10°
S. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10° 19' S; course N
77° W; distance 117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the
north part of New Holland, 5° 31' W. Sunday, June the 7th. Fresh
gales and fair weather till eight in the evening. The remaining part of
the 24 hours squally, with much wind at SSE and ESE, and a high sea, so
that we were constantly wet and baling. In the afternoon, I took an
opportunity of examining again into our store of bread, and found
remaining 19 days allowance, at my former rate of serving one 25th of a
pound three times a day: therefore, as I saw every prospect of a quick
passage, I again ventured to grant an allowance for supper, agreeable
to my promise at the time it was discontinued. We passed the night
miserably wet and cold, and in the morning I heard heavy complaints of
our deplorable situation. The sea was high and breaking over us. I
could only afford the allowance of bread and water for breakfast; but
for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to each person, which was
all that remained. At noon I altered the course
to the WNW, to keep more from the sea while it blew so strong. Latitude
observed 9° 31' S; course N 57° W; distance 88 miles; longitude
made 6° 46' W. Monday, June the 8th. Fresh
gales and squally weather, with some showers of rain. Wind E and ESE. This day the sea ran very
high, and we were continually wet, suffering much cold in the night. I
now remarked that Mr. Ledward, the surgeon, and Lawrence Lebogue, an
old hardy seaman, were giving way very fast. I could only assist them
by a teaspoonful or two of wine, which I had carefully saved, expecting
such a melancholy necessity. Among most of the others I observed more
than a common inclination to sleep, which seemed to indicate that
nature was almost exhausted. Served the usual allowance
of bread and water at supper, breakfast, and dinner. Saw several
gannets. At noon I observed in 8°
45' S; course WNW_W, 106 miles; longitude made 8° 23' W. Tuesday, June the 9th. Wind
SE. The weather being moderate, I steered W by S. At four in the afternoon we
caught a small dolphin, the first relief of the kind we obtained. I
issued about two ounces to each person, including the offals, and saved
the remainder for dinner the next day. Towards
evening the wind freshened, and it blew strong all night, so that we
shipped much water, and suffered greatly from the wet and cold. At
daylight, as usual, I heard much complaining, which my own feelings
convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon and Lebogue a
little wine, but I could give no farther relief, than assurances that a
very few days longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring
us to Timor. Gannets, boobies, men of war
and tropic birds, were constantly about us. Served the usual allowance
of bread and water, and at noon dined on the remains of the dolphin,
which amounted to about an ounce per man. I observed the latitude to be
9° 9' S; longitude made 1O° 8' W; course since yesterday noon S
76° W; distance 107 miles. Wednesday, June the 10th.
Wind ESE. Fresh gales and fair weather, but a continuance of much sea,
which, by breaking almost constantly over the boat, made us miserably
wet, and we had much cold to endure in the night. This afternoon I suffered
great sickness from the oily nature of part of the stomach of the fish,
which had fallen to my share at dinner. At sun-set I served an
allowance of bread and water for supper. In
the morning, after a very bad night, I could see an alteration for the
worse in more than half my people. The usual allowance was served for
breakfast and dinner. At noon I found our situation to be in latitude
9° 16' S; longitude from the north part of New Holland 12° l'
W; course since yesterday noon W ½ S, distance 111 miles. Thursday, June the 11th.
Fresh gales and fair weather. Wind SE and SSE. Birds and rockweed showed
that we were not far from land; but I expected such signs must be here,
as there are many islands between the east part of Timor and New
Guinea. I however hoped to fall in with Timor every hour, for I had
great apprehensions that some of my people could not hold out. An
extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly countenances, great
propensity to sleep, with an apparent debility of understanding, seemed
to me melancholy presages of their approaching dissolution. The surgeon
and Lebogue, in particular, were most miserable objects. I occasionally
gave them a few teaspoonfuls of wine; out of the little I had saved for
this dreadful stage, which no doubt greatly helped to support them. For my own part, a great
share of spirits, with the hopes of being able to accomplish the
voyage, seemed to be my principal support; but the boatswain very
innocently told me, that he really thought I looked worse than anyone
in the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such an opinion
diverted me, and I had good humor enough to return him a better
compliment. Every one received his 25th
of a pound of bread, and quarter of a pint of water, at evening,
morning, and noon, and an extra allowance of water was given to those
who desired it. At noon I observed in
latitude 9° 41' S; course S 77° W; distance 109 miles;
longitude made 13° 49' W. I had little doubt of having now passed
the meridian of the eastern part of Timor, which is laid down in
128° E. This diffused universal joy and satisfaction. Friday, June the 12th. Fresh
breezes and fine weather, but very hazy. Wind from E to SE. All the afternoon we had
several gannets, and many other birds, about us, that indicated we were
near land, and at sun-set we kept a very anxious look-out. In the
evening we caught a booby, which I reserved for our dinner the next day. At three in the morning,
with an excess of joy, we discovered Timor bearing from WSW to WNW, and
I hauled on a wind to the NNE till day-light, when the land bore from
SW by S about two leagues to NE by N seven leagues. It is not possible for me to
describe the pleasure, which the blessing of the sight of land diffused
among us. It appeared scarce credible, that in an open boat, and so
poorly provided, we should have been able to reach the coast of Timor
in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having in that time run, by our
log, a distance of 3618 miles, and that, notwithstanding our extreme
distress, no one should have perished in the voyage. I have already mentioned,
that I knew not where the Dutch settlement was situated; but I had a
faint idea that it was at the SW part of the island. I therefore, after
daylight, bore away along shore to the SSW, and the more readily as the
wind would not suffer us to go towards the NE without great loss of
time. The day gave us a most
agreeable prospect of the land, which was interspersed with woods and
lawns; the interior part mountainous, but the shore low. Towards noon
the coast became higher, with some remarkable headlands. We were
greatly delighted with the general look of the country, which exhibited
many cultivated spots and beautiful situations; but we could only see a
few small huts, whence I concluded no European resided in this part of
the island. Much sea ran on the shore, so that landing with a boat was
impracticable. At noon I was abreast of a very high head-land; the
extremes of the land bore SW ½ W, and NNE ½ E; our
distance off shore being three miles; latitude, by observation, 9°
59' S; and my longitude, by dead reckoning, from the north part of New
Holland, 15° 6' W. With the usual allowance of
bread and water for dinner, I divided the bird we had caught the night
before, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I gave a little wine. Saturday, June the 13th.
Fresh gales at E, and ESE, with very hazy weather. During the afternoon, we
continued our course along a low woody shore, with innumerable
palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf spreading like a fan; but
we had now lost all signs of cultivation, and the country had not so
fine an appearance as it had to the eastward. This, however, was only a
small tract, for by sunset it improved again, and I saw several great
smokes where the inhabitants were clearing and cultivating their
grounds. We had now ran 25 miles to the WSW since noon, and were W five
miles from a low point, which in the afternoon I imagined had been the
southernmost land, and here the coast formed a deep bend, with low land
in the bight that appeared like islands. The west shore was high; but
from this part of the coast to the high cape, which we were abreast of
yesterday noon, the shore is low, and I believe shoal. I particularly
remark this situation, because here the very high ridge of mountains
that run from the east end of the island, terminate, and the appearance
of the country suddenly changes for the worse, as if it was not the
same island in any respect. That we might not run past
any settlement in the night, I determined to preserve my station till
the morning, and therefore hove to under a close-reefed foresail, with
which the boat lay very quiet. We were here in shoal water, our
distance from the shore being half a league, the westernmost land in
sight bearing WSW ½ W. Served bread and water for supper, and
the boat lying too very well, all but the officer of the watch
endeavored to get a little sleep. At two in the morning, we
wore, and stood in shore till daylight, when I found we had drifted,
during the night, about three leagues to the WSW, the southernmost land
in sight bearing W. On examining the coast, and not seeing any sign of
a settlement, we bore away to the westward, having a strong gale,
against a weather current, which occasioned much sea. The shore was
high and covered with wood, but we did not run far before low land
again formed the coast, the points of which opening at west, I once
more fancied we were on the south part of the island; but at ten
o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the south, part of
it bearing WSW ½ W. At the same time high land appeared from SW
to SW by W ½ W; but the weather was so hazy, that it was
doubtful whether the two lands were separated, the opening only
extending one point of the compass. I, for this reason, stood towards
the outer land, and found it to be the island Roti. I returned to the shore I
had left, and in a sandy bay I brought to a grapnel, that I might more
conveniently calculate my situation. In this place we saw several
smokes, where the natives were clearing their grounds. During the
little time we remained here, the master and carpenter very much
importuned me to let them go in search of supplies; to which, at
length, I assented; but, finding no one willing to be of their party,
they did not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no longer than for
the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering along shore. We
had a view of a beautiful-looking country, as if formed by art into
lawns and parks. The coast is low, and covered with woods, in which are
innumerable fan palm-trees, that look like cocoanut walks. The interior
part is high land, but very different from the more eastern parts of
the island, where it is exceedingly mountainous, and to appearance the
soil better. At noon, the island Roti
bore SW by W seven leagues. I had no observation for the latitude, but,
by account, we were in 10° 12' S, our course since yesterday noon
being S 77 W, 54 miles. The usual allowance of bread and water was
served for breakfast and dinner, and to the surgeon and Lebogue, I gave
a little wine. Sunday, June the 14th. A
strong gale at ESE, with hazy weather, all the afternoon; after which
the wind became moderate. At two o'clock this
afternoon, having run through a very dangerous breaking sea, the cause
of which I attributed to a strong tide setting to windward, and shoal
water, we discovered a spacious bay or sound, with a fair entrance
about two or three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that our voyage
was nearly at an end, as no place could appear more eligible for
shipping, or more likely to be chosen for an European settlement: I
therefore came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance, in a
small sandy bay, where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle; and I
immediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut, to discover
the inhabitants. The SW point of the entrance
bore W ½ S three miles; the SE point S by W three quarters of a
mile; and the island Roti from S by W ½ W to SW ¼ W,
about five leagues. While we lay here I found
the ebb came from the northward, and before our departure the falling
of the tide discovered to us a reef of rocks, about two cables length
from the shore; the whole being covered at high-water, renders it
dangerous. On the opposite shore also appeared very high breakers; but
there is nevertheless plenty of room, and certainly a safe channel for
a first-rate man of war. The bay or sound within
seemed to be of a considerable extent; the northern part, which I had
now in view, being about five leagues distant. Here the land made in
moderate risings joined by lower grounds. But the island Roti, which
lies to the southward, is the best mark to know this place. I had just time to make
these remarks, when I saw the boatswain and gunner returning with some
of the natives: I therefore no longer doubted of our success, and that
our most sanguine expectations would be fully gratified. They brought
five Indians, and informed me that they had found two families, where
the women treated them with European politeness. From these people I
learned, that the governor resided at a place called Coupang, which was
some distance to the NE. I made signs for one of them to go in the
boat, and show me Coupang, intimating that I would pay him for his
trouble; the man readily complied, and came into the boat. These people were of a dark
tawny color, and had long black hair; they chewed a great deal of
beetle, and wore a square piece of cloth round their hips, in the folds
of which was stuck a large knife. They had a handkerchief wrapped round
their heads, and at their shoulders hung another tied by the four
corners, which served as a bag for their beetle equipage. They brought us a few pieces
of dried turtle, and some ears of Indian corn. This last was most
welcome to us; for the turtle was so hard, that it could not be eaten
without being first soaked in hot water. Had I staid they would have
brought us something more; but, as the pilot was willing, I was
determined to push on. It was about half an hour past four when we
sailed. By direction of the pilot we
kept close to the east shore under all our sail; but as night came on,
the wind died away, and we were obliged to try at the oars, which I was
surprised to see we could use with some effect. However, at ten
o'clock, as I found we got but little ahead, I came to a grapnel, and
for the first time I issued double allowance of bread and a little wine
to each person. At one o'clock in the
morning, after the most happy and sweet sleep that ever men had, we
weighed, and continued to keep the east shore on board, in very smooth
water; when at last I found we were again open to the sea, the whole of
the land to the westward, that we had passed, being an island, which
the pilot called Pulo Samow. The northern entrance of this channel is
about a mile and a half or two miles wide, and I had no ground at ten
fathoms. Hearing the report of two
cannon that were fired, gave new life to everyone; and soon after we
discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter at anchor to the
eastward. I endeavored to work to windward, but we were obliged to take
to our oars again, having lost ground on each tack. We kept close to
the shore, and continued rowing till four o'clock, when I brought to a
grapnel, and gave another allowance of bread and wine to all hands. As
soon as we had rested a little, we weighed again, and rowed till near
day-light, when I came to a grapnel, off a small fort and town, which
the pilot told me was Coupang. Among the things which the
boatswain had thrown into the boat before we left the ship, was a
bundle of signal flags that had been made for the boats to show the
depth of water in sounding; with these I had, in the course of the
passage, made a small jack, which I now hoisted in the main shrouds, as
a signal of distress; for I did not choose to land without leave. Soon after day-break a
soldier hailed me to land, which I instantly did, among a crowd of
Indians, and was agreeably surprised to meet with an English sailor,
who belonged to one of the vessels in the road. His captain, he told
me, was the second person in the town; I therefore desired to be
conducted to him, as I was informed the governor was ill, and could not
then be spoken with. Captain Spikerman received
me with great humanity. I informed him of our miserable situation; and
requested that care might be taken of those who were with me, without
delay. On which he gave directions for their immediate reception at his
own house, and went himself to the governor, to know at what time I
could be permitted to see him; which was fixed to be at eleven o'clock.
I now desired every one to
come on shore, which was as much as some of them could do, being scarce
able to walk: they, however, got at last to the house, and found tea
with bread and butter provided for their breakfast. The abilities of a painter,
perhaps, could never have been displayed to more advantage than in the
delineation of the two groups of figures, which at this time presented
themselves. An indifferent spectator would
have been at a loss which most to admire; the eyes of famine sparkling
at immediate relief, or the horror of their preservers at the sight of
so many spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had been
unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies were
nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores, and we were
clothed in rags; in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude
flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture
of horror, surprise, and pity. The governor, Mr. William
Adrian Van Este, notwithstanding his extreme ill health, became so
anxious about us, that I saw him before the appointed time. He received
me with great affection, and gave me the fullest proofs that he was
possessed of every feeling of a humane and good man. Sorry as he was,
he said, that such a calamity could ever have happened to us, yet he
considered it as the greatest blessing of his life that we had fallen
under his protection; and, though his infirmity was so great that he
could not do the office of a friend himself, he would give such orders
as I might be certain would procure me every supply I wanted. In the
mean time a house was hired for me, and, till matters could be properly
regulated, victuals for every one were ordered to be dressed at his own
house. With respect to my people, he said I might have room for them
either at the hospital or on board of Captain Spikerman's ship, which
lay in the road; and he expressed much uneasiness that Coupang could
not afford them better accommodations, the house assigned to me being
the only one uninhabited, and the situation of the few families such,
that they could not accommodate anyone. After this conversation an
elegant repast was set before me, more according to the custom of the
country, than with design to alleviate my hunger: so that in this
instance he happily blended, with common politeness, the greatest favor
I could receive. On returning to my people, I
found every kind relief had been given to them. The surgeon had dressed
their sores, and the cleaning of their persons had not been less
attended to, besides several friendly gifts of apparel. I now desired to be shewn to
the house that was intended for me, and I found it ready, with servants
to attend, and a particular one, which the governor had directed to be
always about my person. The house consisted of a hall, with a room at
each end, and a loft overhead; and was surrounded by a piazza, with an
outer apartment in one corner, and a communication from the back part
of the house to the street. I therefore determined, instead of
separating from my people, to lodge them all with me; and I divided the
house as follows: One room I took to myself, the other I allotted to
the master, surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the loft to the other
officers; and the outer apartment to the men. The hall was common to
the officers, and the men had the back piazza. Of this I informed the
governor, and he sent down chairs, tables, and benches, with bedding
and other necessaries for the use of everyone. The governor, when I took my
leave, had desired me to acquaint him with every thing of which I stood
in need; but I was now informed it was only at particular times that he
had a few moments of ease, or could attend to any thing; being in a
dying state, with an incurable disease. On this account, whatever
business I had to transact would be with Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the
second of this place, and the governor's son-in-law; who now also was
contributing every thing in his power to make our situation
comfortable. I had been therefore, misinformed by the seaman, who told
me that Captain Spikerman was the next person to the governor. At noon a very handsome
dinner was brought to the house, which was sufficient to make persons,
more accustomed to plenty, eat too much. Cautions, therefore, might be
supposed to have had little effect; but I believe few people in such a
situation would have observed more moderation. My greatest apprehension
was, that they would eat too much fruit. Having seen everyone enjoy
this meal of plenty, I dined with Mr. Wanjon but I found no
extraordinary inclination to eat or drink. Rest and quiet, I
considered, as more necessary to my doing well, and therefore retired
to my room, which I found furnished with every convenience. But,
instead of rest, my mind was disposed to reflect on our late
sufferings, and on the failure of the expedition; but, above all, on
the thanks due to Almighty God, who had given us power to support and
bear such heavy calamities, and had enabled me at last to be the means
of saving eighteen lives. In times of difficulty there
will generally arise circumstances that bear more particularly hard on
a commander. In our late situation, it was not the least of my
distresses, to be constantly assailed with the melancholy demands of my
people for an increase of allowance, which it grieved me to refuse. The
necessity of observing the most rigid economy in the distribution of
our provisions was so evident, that I resisted their solicitations, and
never deviated from the agreement we made at setting out. The
consequence of this care was, that at our arrival we had still
remaining sufficient for eleven days, at our scanty allowance: and if
we had been so unfortunate as to have missed the Dutch settlement at
Timor, we could have proceeded to Java, where I was certain every
supply we wanted could be procured. Another disagreeable
circumstance, to which my situation exposed me, was the caprice of
ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting, they would have
carried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of Timor,
without considering that landing among the natives, at a distance from
the European settlement, might have been as dangerous as among any
other Indians. The quantity of provisions
with which we left the ship, was not more than we should have consumed
in five days, had there been no necessity for husbanding our stock. The
mutineers must naturally have concluded that we could have no other
place of refuge than the Friendly Islands; for it was not likely they
should imagine, that, so poorly equipped as we were in every respect,
there could have been a possibility of our attempting to return
homewards: much less will they suspect that the account of their
villany has already reached their native country. When I reflect how
providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa, by the Indians delaying
their attack, and that, with scarce any thing to support life, we
crossed a sea of more than 1200 leagues, without shelter from the
inclemency of the weather; when I reflect that in an open boat, with so
much stormy weather, we escaped foundering, that not any of us were
taken off by disease, that we had the great good fortune to pass the
unfriendly natives of other countries without accident, and at last
happily to meet with the most friendly and best of people to relieve
our distresses; I say, when I reflect on all these wonderful escapes,
the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with
resignation and cheerfulness, the failure of an expedition, the success
of which I had so much at heart, and which was frustrated at a time
when I was congratulating myself on the fairest prospect of being able
to complete it in a manner that would fully have answered the intention
of his Majesty, and the honorable promoters of so benevolent a plan. With respect to the
preservation of our health, during a course of 16 days of heavy and
almost continual rain, I would recommend to everyone in a similar
situation the method we practiced, which is to dip their clothes in the
salt-water, and wring them out, as often as they become filled with
rain; it was the only resource we had, and I believe was of the
greatest service to us, for it felt more like a change of dry clothes
than could well be imagined. We had occasion to do this so often, that
at length all our clothes were wrung to pieces: for, except the few
days we passed on the coast of New Holland, we were continually wet
either with rain or sea. Thus, through the assistance
of Divine Providence, we surmounted the difficulties and distresses of
a most perilous voyage, and arrived safe in an hospitable port, where
every necessary and comfort were administered to us with a most liberal
hand. As, from the great humanity
and attention of the governor, and the gentlemen, at Coupang, we
received every kind of assistance, we were not long without evident
signs of returning health: therefore, to secure my arrival at Batavia,
before the October fleet sailed for Europe, on the first of July, I
purchased a small schooner, 34 feet long, for which I gave 1000
rix-dollars, and fitted her for sea, under the name of His Majesty's
schooner Resource. On the 20th of July, I had
the misfortune to lose Mr. David Nelson: he died of an inflammatory
fever. The loss of this honest man I very much lamented: he had
accomplished, with great care and diligence, the object for which he
was sent, and was always ready to forward every plan I proposed, for
the good of the service we were on. He was
equally useful in our voyage hither, in the course of which he gave me
great satisfaction, by the patience and fortitude with which he
conducted himself. July 21st. This day I was
employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson. The corpse was carried by
twelve soldiers drest in black, preceded by the minister; next followed
myself and second governor; then ten gentlemen of the town and the
officers of the ships in the harbor; and after them my own officers and
people. After reading our
burial-service, the body was interred behind the chapel, in the
burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans of the town. I was sorry I
could get no tombstone to place over his remains. This was the second voyage
Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the South Seas, having been sent out by
Sir Joseph Banks, to collect plants; seeds, &c. in Captain Cook's
last voyage. And now, after surmounting so many difficulties, and in
the midst of thankfulness for his deliverance, he was called upon to
pay the debt of nature, at a time least expected. August the 20th. After
taking an affectionate leave of the hospitable and friendly
inhabitants, I embarked, and we sailed from Coupang, exchanging salutes
with the fort and shipping as we ran out of the harbor. I left the governor, Mr. Van
Este, at the point of death. To this gentleman our most grateful thanks
are due, for the humane and friendly treatment that we have received
from him. His ill state of health only prevented him from showing us
more particular marks of attention. Unhappily, it is to his memory only
that I now pay this tribute. It was a fortunate circumstance for us,
that Mr. Wanjon, the next in place to the governor, was equally humane
and ready to relieve us. His attention was unremitting, and, when there
was a doubt about supplying me with money, on government account, to
enable me to purchase a vessel, he cheerfully took it upon himself;
without which, it was evident, I should have been too late at Batavia
to have sailed for Europe with the October fleet. I can only return
such services by ever retaining a grateful remembrance of them. Mr. Max, the town surgeon,
likewise behaved to us with the most disinterested humanity: he
attended everyone with the utmost care; for which I could not prevail
on him to receive any payment, or to render me any account, or other
answer, than that it was his duty. Coupang is situated in
10° 12' S latitude, and 124° 41' E longitude. On the 29th of August, I
passed by the west end of the Island Flores, through a dangerous strait
full of islands and rocks; and, having got into the latitude of 8°
S, I steered to the west, passing the islands Sumbawa, Lombock, and
Bali, towards Java, which I saw on the 6th of September. I
continued my course to the west, through the Straits of Madura. On the 10th of September, I
anchored off Passourwang, in latitude 7° 36' S, and 1 ° 44' W
of Cape Sandana, the NE end of Java. On the 11th I sailed, and on
the 13th arrived at Sourabya, latitude 7° 11' S, 1° 52' west. On the 17th of September,
sailed from Sourabya, and the same day anchored at Crissey, for about
two hours, and from thence I proceeded to Samarang, Latitude of Crissey
7° 9' S, 1° 55' west. On the 22nd of September,
anchored at Samarang; latitude 6° 54' S, 4° 7' W. And on the
26th I sailed for Batavia, where I arrived on the 1st of October,
Latitude 6° 10' S; 8° 12' W from the east end of Java. On the day after my arrival,
having gone through some fatigue in adjusting matters to get my people
out of the schooner, as she lay in the river, and in an unhealthy
situation, I was seized with a violent fever. On the 7th, I was carried
into the country, to the physician-general's house, where, the
governor-general informed me, I should be accommodated with every
attendance and convenience; and to this only can I attribute my
recovery. It was, however, necessary for me to quit Batavia without
delay; and the governor, on that account, gave me leave, with two
others, to go in a packet that was to sail before the fleet; and
assured me, that those who remained should be sent after me by the
fleet, which was to sail before the end of the month: that if I
remained, which would be highly hazardous, he could not send us all in
one ship. My sailing, therefore, was eligible, even if it had not been
necessary for my health; and for that reason I On the 16th of December, I
arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, where I first observed that my usual
health was returning; but for a long time I continued very weak and
infirm. I received the greatest
attention and politeness from the governor-general, and all the
residents on the coast of Java; and particular marks of friendship and
regard from the governor, M. Van de Graaf, at the Cape of Good Hope. On the 2d of January 1790,
we sailed for Europe, and on the 14th of March, I was landed
at Portsmouth by an Isle of Wight boat. -F I N I S- |